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This is a crank, pause, crank, pause issue that is happening on a late 60’s A-Body Mopar resto-mod with a 2010 6.1L Hemi swap. Link to video: Anybody know what could be causing this? The ignition key is being held fully in start position until motor starts. And also does it during...

I used NiCopp for the lines in the rear that go to each brake assembly. I assume that would be good to use up front too, right? Thanks for the advice

Yeah, but once it's refunded, what guarantee does Justin have he'll remove the feedback (Joey has to agree to do it) or offer any apology? I don't believe he'll do it anyway. If it was me, that valve cover would be on the hot track to the buyer's house.

yeah, well the car is a factory 383 car so I think it's pretty novel to have the original block, trans, and rear end housing in a racecar and make decent times. It's not like I'm trying to go class racing or anything, I'd be tickled if it ran in the high 9's/low 10's with a shot of nitrous, and...

TRW pistons require a ridiculous amount of clearance due to the expansion rate and are boat anchors in weight compared to modern piston offerings. Modern pistons allow for much tighter clearances and will provide a better ring package. If you want a 13 to 1 engine in that cubic inch size...

My guess is the head bolts were either faulty...or not torqued sufficiently. One side blowing due to detonation maybe, but both sides....... I have had ARP bolts too long, bottom out. Their QC leaves a lot to be desired....

cool to see more aftermarket block options to potentially use for our stuff. Michael

You have picked the worst engine out of all the big blocks to power a heavy car; the 383/400 has the highest rod/stroke ratio of ALL the BBs, 1.88. Far better to go with a stroker crank & use 383 rods [ H beams ]. The warning below about too much duration causing slower ETs applies to 383s as...

if i were in your shoes, i'd happily refund him if he rescinded the negative feedback and made a public apology. if he isn't open to those terms, i'd still refund him, albeit begrudgingly. however i'd sleep well knowing that i have his address on file. it's shockingly easy and ridiculously...

450.

8 3/4 cone posi internal parts. Side gears, very good condition - $60 pr Side cones, will need cut as they bottomed on case. Cone surfaces in good condition, $50 pr Spider gears, good condition but one is stuck on cross-shaft, $45 pr Spring plates, springs, case bolts in good condition

I'd ship it to him. Because in the end, even if you refund it, he'll still be butthurt, plus you'll still have a negative feedback.

Not a small town guy, huh?

They could have been running max wedge heads ??? I wouldn't mind having one of those old mushroom lifter camshafts. I think I recall the thread, oops

$15 + shipping

$25 + shipping

Was close to spit my coffee on the monitor:rofl:

$10 + shipping

Thanks Rob. Beware, volaredoof is a loserposAhole. Whenever there's a dispute thread, every asshole that's ever disagreed with you makes an appearance. It's like a tradition. I listed the part number and posted pictures. Everybody's level of expertise to know what they have in front of them and...

Yeah I was really intrigued when I read in a old Mopar book from the 70's about a build pretty similar to what I am trying to accomplish, but it had no information on head flow data, valvetrain, or any of the voodoo. Back then they ran a .654 DC Mini Express mushroom cam. I initially was going...

$25 + shipping

The red X is gone........might as well remove the classifieds too! :thankyou:

$15 each + shipping

I really don't understand it when people jump the gun and complain about people publicly on this forum before they even have a chance to respond. A person could be in the hospital or on a fishing trip for a few days. And then to leave negative feedback?

Nationwide search currently underway, pickings are slim in my neck of the woods. Thanks!

I have the same idea myself in building a stock stroke (400) but same principle, just make something radical that isn't the norm nowadays with all the kits available

Sounds good buddy,I'm in Washington state, my hemi cars currently on ebay!

Well that's up to you, if you want to trust those rods, arp will be your best option for bolts. Have to be mindful of torque specs though as more torque on the bolts will require a little resizing the rod. If you were to change to main studs you would need the block line honed also. Since it's...

yeah that's probably not happening then IMO