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The whole thing is kinda pretty for a Magnum motor, if I do say so myself.:D

Blue here as well with zero issues.

No machining needed for the seals, they went on firmly basically by hand but I did tap them down lightly to make sure they seated. They are the blue ones with the little spring rings. The stem locks stick down below the retainers a little, just so you know. .512 lift

I used the 1110 springs, the better clearance retainers and positive valve stem seals on a pair of New Zealand cast EQ heads with stainless valves. Everything went well.

I’m running that Hughes kit. Not sure it allows up to .540, but it’s up there close to that. Lots of clearance with .512 here.

The back end looks like a face with the tongue hanging out.

It’s probably a pretty dang good car, but a ricer by any other name is still a ricer. If Harley can sue and win for sound copy, then Chrysler should be able to sue for that front end.

Silly stuff guys say is tolerable. It’s the flat out stupid **** they say that gets me. “I bought this car from where it was parked for 50 years right up against the wall on the border with Mexico. Had to drive 700 miles to Las Cruces with a trailer to get it” You dumbass, Las Cruces is in New...

Could be both actually. I’m sure HEI had nothing to do with it. :D

Thanks. I considered putting replaceable ones in, but I would have had to get flats milled on the carb body to make room for the bleeds. There wasn’t enough flat area for the heads of screw in bleeds.

Nobody? :D It’s not hard if you don’t drop one down in the motor or screw up the drilling.

The other day I got the 72 Dart ready for anytime driving duty since it has always been registered and insured but almost never driven. I noticed a miss that wasn’t there before and tracked it down by inserting a test light between the wires and caps on the distributor. Yep, cylinder number 5. I...

Basically a shoehorn for the seal edge.

RTV sticks better and lasts longer instead of seam sealer. If your hood surface lifted off the old putty it will just do it again. RTV and a little weight where it lifted will work really well. As far as hole cutting I just tape over the entire area and use a jig saw.

Or a little string of rubber fuel line.

Uh huh. :D Air cleaner lid says Edelbrock but it’s a Holley 770 Street Avenger.

Someone asked me why not a 340 in my dart. I told them I could get 3-4 good 5.9’s for the expense of the 340 these days.

Had the same issues with an Edelbrock carb, I’m sure you know why. Added a return T’d right at the carb inlet and an inline restrictor orifice for the return that keeps the main line pressure around 6 pounds. When choosing the restrictor I used a gauge to show the main line pressure. No return...

If they aren’t in my address book my phone is set to not even ring. Leave a message. I got this phone for YouTube and Go Pro software, not to get bugged the piss out of by people I don’t know.

Man, can I relate to that.

When I saw the posted pic I thought it was a Weiand. I have a 7545 Accelerator, and they sure do look the same.

By the time you paid for bars and add the cost of a day trip you might be better off just buying new from PST.

Agree on the basic kit, as 727’s are tough in a basically stock V8 car. Then you can spend the saved cash on some sort of treat, like a new steering wheel or whatever.

You expressed an interest in keeping the cost down, so all of my suggestions are based on that. Yes 9.1 I run 87 without any problems. 93 gives about the amount of better gas mileage that it costs, so it’s kind of a wash.

Your plan sounds pretty good so far save for the cam lift. I think your cam duration could be a little higher for one. I did exactly what you are planning, with some slight differences. My Oregon regrind is 214/224 and .512 lift on 110and sound wise I can barely tell it has anything other than...

I have done over 100 for a couple of hours without the shield with no issues if that answers your question. No idea what tech says about it.

Fly me down there and I’ll fix it for you. :D

Also note that the contact between the actual bulb socket and housing are two different pieces and corrosion between the two metals can cause a loss of ground to the bulb. If you look close you can see the parting line between the two. I have solved this problem by drilling and putting a small...

I have always had to use pliers or channel locks to turn that way. If in the car with wheels off the ground it can be turned with the drive shaft, but it still ain’t easy.

That is because of trying to turn it through backwards gear reduction. Perfectly normal.