Search results for query: *

See the one I have circled? Notice the pattern is off to the side? I see this often when I re-face brand new lifters. The lifter was held crooked when the spherical radius was ground on the face.

NONE of those look "fine" from here...

In my shop I try NOT to build anything flat tappet. But when I do, I have a tobin-arp tappet grinder and I reface EVERY lifter that gets installed. I also save all the flat tappets I pull from core engines. The surface finish and radius is terrible on a bunch of the new ones right out of the box

Nick is not a engine "builder" he is a engine "assembler" and there is a difference. He has figured out how to take 10 minutes of content and stretch it out into 45 minute videos. That's how he makes money

If it's too tight, the whole world will know, if it's to loose only you will know. Think about it

Used them in aluminum LS blocks, they do work great.

That engine definitely does not sound happy. And I agree, sounds like it's missing on one cylinder at least.

Zero cause for concern

What ever happened to your old duster street car?

Sounds like great news!

In theory yes, but in real life...NO

You cannot do it that way. The timing specs are based on tappet lift, NOT valve lift and you cannot figure it mathematically because you dont know your actual rocker ratio, not to mention your geometry will effect rocker ratio

You will NOT have the exact lift at the valve as the cam card indicates. Almost no rockers are exactly there indicated ratio, seldom are all 16 the same, and you probably have geometry affecting you as well. Not to mention, if you still have the spring on the head your running, that will induce...

Impressive numbers for damn sure!

Your cam seems REALLY small for a 500 cube motor, and 800cfm is WOEFULLY inadequate in my opinion. I ran a dual 4 barrel fitech unit on a 410 smallblock, that was probably 1200 cfm, and the engine was super crisp right off idle, even with all 8 barrels open at the same time

Very cool thread, thanks for posting!

I saw the 426 video, that was a industrial or truck engine with a set of 906 heads, appears to be worn out, blow by out the valve covers looks quite excessive, and I was chuckling at the idea of shimming the oil pump relief spring to increase hot idle oil pressure........spoiler, that doesn't help.

Have to agree with @j par on this one, I have found the factory starters superior in quality to the aftermarket ones, the only thing that typically fails in them are the contacts in the solenoid. About $10 in parts and 20 mins to fix if needed. Cheap-simple-reliable

VERY cool....I'll be following!

At 80 MPH in the 1/8th mile, its making dismal power. For sure a full check of the basics is in order as previously mentioned.

Excellent build, thanks for sharing!

I wouldn't buy that if it was local....nothing usable but the block, and it sure looks busted and cracked in various pictures

Actually the engine will bolt directly to the 73 k frame with those mounts, but it sets the engine forward a bit, so it's best to modify the k frame, or buy the shumaker mounts as already mentioned

Sounds healthy!

I prefer the from the bottom method personally

Trying to wrestle it back in, is where the from the bottom method really shines.

Remove column, drop k frame/engine/trans out the bottom as one unit. Totally out on the floor in a hour, no scratches, no hassle.

That is one SWEET duster!

Remember if you do the 400 block based 451, it being a low deck motor will give you "slightly" more room as compared to a 440