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I could see that if it was continued to run that way.

Just so you know Steve, I have seen a lot of converters with witness marks like that and it never adversely affected the converter in any of those cases.

I don’t have a lot of confidence in the trans guy if he thinks the only solution is lengthening the rod. A&A trans makes different governor weights that they recommend when the car owner tells them what the trans is currently doing, but personally I think the PT kick down will handle it just fine.

Haven’t seen that one specifically, but yes that is the idea. It’s an add on to the valve bodies that don’t have it and is really easy to add. I added one when I had the 904 in my Dart and it was night and day difference for kick down.

You might want to grab a pic of the part throttle kd assembly so you know what it looks like, if you don’t already.

The non existent part throttle kick down is what I was thinking as well.

I assume you are using the vacuum switch to get throttle controlled kick down. It may be that the vacuum switch is the culprit in the OD chatter. Try bypassing it and see how it acts. I scraped the vacuum switch on my setup because I found it really wasn’t necessary. If I need that much...

Yes as said OD, then lockup. FYI, OD is fed off the third gear pressure, meaning there is no way the trans can apply OD before it’s in third first. LU can be engaged at any time and any gear. If you plan on using pressure switches, it’s a good idea to set up OD first, then set up Lockup. This...

One of the terminals on your starter relay needs to be grounded for the relay to activate. The switch you show (ouch) is just a ground switch. It makes a ground for the solenoid to activate when the trans is in park or neutral. One wire from the switch terminal to the starter relay does it...

That’s an old school way of adjusting the front band, and it does work for why it’s done. The idea is that you stop the driveshaft with the band and the back off until the band lets it turn again. This gives the closest tolerance of the band adjustment. It can help solve shift flares and makes...

From the sounds of what you described something should be fairly obvious. Or, maybe a better description is in order.

He says the engine revs but the car doesn’t seem to accelerate. It’s either slipping or the converter is trashed. Either way it warrants a pan drop as an inspection.

If the trans did what you described with the new fluid it would smell like a forest fire. Drop the pan and post a couple of pics. That will tell a lot. Sounds like a burnt forward clutch to me, and possibly the front band.

When I did mine they only made a kit without any speed adjustments, so I built this setup myself.

I have a 42RH in my dart that shifts OD and lockup fully automatically by using pressure switches off the governor port of the trans. The switches are even adjustable so you can set your preferred shift speeds. Or turn both off to simulate a standard 904. Same can be done with the 46RH and...

Yea, I saw that video. The thing is, if I was working with some of the stuff he does I would hack some of it too.

Is it possible that the bearings you got years ago were better quality? Maybe. I take all the YouTubers with a grain of salt, and some are so hack I have to change the channel, so please don’t think I fall for everything anyone else says or does. Speaking from first hand knowledge on the...

Have you seen Chris Birdsong’s video on green bearings? He REALLY hates them. Junkerup on YouTube. Found it.

Don’t understand why anyone would put “green” bearings in their car. Overall unreliable POS. The factory bearings are WAY better. A buddy had fairly new ones and one let go on the hiway while we were going to a car show 90 miles away. Blew gear oil all over the entire back end of his car and...

If that boot is left unfolded you will probably be smelling burnt rubber, or it could actually catch on fire from the friction. I would cut that boot off. Lots of these cars never had the boot in the first place.

Sorry, no idea. I have 18’s on the back and 17’s on the front.

Usually when the housing breaks it’s because of an out of balance driveshaft. Too long and they jam the trans internals together causing end play clearances to go away and smashing parts together.

Had a brand new one built and it was about the same.

I know it sucks to wait, but it is always best to measure once the trans is in.

Missing or broken return spring on the TP lever will cause varying degrees of late shifts at light throttle.

If you ever worked in a trans shop you would see that almost every day. Front seal can go bad, or even pop out. Pump gasket can leak. Pump bushing can go, causing the seal to leak. A cracked converter snout can make it where you need a new pump, gears, bushing, seal and converter. Not meant to...

The thick weights only. The little thin ones if any were for the initial balancing, and not for crank balance.

Pulled the axles and it was quiet and smooth? Um, two years ago or not it points to axle bearings. It sure is easy to check em while they’re out.

How far and at what speed do you need to move it? There is an acceptable distance with the driveshaft installed. I believe the trans is basically in neutral when there is no electrical power to it.