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Don't get you're panties in such a bunch. I thought you may have known of a new line of QA1 shocks or something. I had their double adjustable on my old Duster. They worked well.

Their non-adjustable shocks are over $600 a set.

Where ya finding those for less than $600 a set?

I'd buzz some tack welds before I used locktite to make up for that slop. Better yet, get a bushing that fits like it should.

Looks like a 72 and back strut rod. 73+ are course thread I believe.

Doesn't using this portion of the tool (circled below) to level it render any wheel rotation irrelevant? I have one like this, well I used to at least (a buddy's had it for a while now). When taking left and right measurements, you level the gauge for both first. Any wheel rotation is negated by...

It may just be an optical illusion though because the drum LBJ is thinner. Only one way to find out.

Side by side:

At the very least, be sure to take it apart to see what's going on before you buy anything. There are several versions of these couplers and they're all slightly different. You may be able to use the shoes in that kit, but you won't be able to use the seal, seal retainer, or spring. Hopefully...

Keep in mind you won't be able to use most of the parts in the kit Rick posted. Your coupler is a completely different shape. I went through the same thing on the couple on my '66 Dart.

Something's up with that passenger side spring would be my guess. The angle of the coils seems very different

Are the parts numbers on the springs the same? Did they have the same length sitting on your bench prior to installation? Something's not right.

Yeah, that's something I've never seen. Hey, at least the axle tubes aren't kinked.

Does anyone have a photo they'd be willing to share of a housing they've kinked from using round u-bolts (torqued to factory spec)? I used them before and have never kinked an 8-3/4 housing. Maybe I've just gotten lucky. I've got the same Calvert u-bolts holding Dana 60 in my '66 Dart. Granted...

Hit it with an impact until it gets to the point of not spinning the shaft, then torque it to spec.

72 would have had the same centerlink regardless of engine. Only the '66 and earlier had different bars for slant six vs. small block.

Here's a nifty trick someone posted on this site a while back to separate upper balljoints.

Is the Borgeson unit a different design all together? How does it eliminate the dead spot in the middle? Or is it just because the internals are brand new? Do they make a manual box as tight as the power steer unit?

Glad to hear it's not just me.

What were the measurable stiffness improvements from your modifications?

You're car is slightly different than my '68. The rails on my '68 are much more vertical than yours, especially as it approaches the outrigger/floor support. I also cut the mounts where the lines are below. This eliminated the slight taper issue. Like I said, it's a lot more vertical on mine...

...to allow for the bolt head. All-in-all, it ended up being plenty for what I was doing. The 275/60s don't rub at all. Lots of kits and lots of ways to skin a cat with this stuff. In the end, it just depends on how much cutting, welding, and grinding you want to do. *edited for additional...

The delrin bushings don't require grease?

There are different coupler bodies depending on the year. Is yours one of the early versions that's more squared off? If so, the springs in the kits won't work with it.

Some attorney made them throw that in there.

Calvert calls for 65-70 ftlbs for standard 1/2" u-bolts and 100 ftlbs for 9/16" truck u-bolts.

That's pretty badass. Thanks for the update!

What an awesome looking Demon. How do the calvert split mono leafs act on the street?

Are the super stock springs still available? Who's making them these days?

Are the springs new? If so, Calvert may just swap you rear segments. You may want to try giving them a call. They're a pretty stand up company.