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I looked at the photos belmateo sent and it appears the cut was done at the spare tire seam and just behind the wheel well. You can see the tire seam was resealed and the extra support was added at the wheel well and rear trunk at the opening. Nice job on the transformation from 69 to 70, except...

We used to call the kick down, the passing gear. I never like to use it, but it did work. Reason was. there was a pause before the dropped gear change, so I would always manually, shift into 2nd or 1st as needed, for a more positive shift. I don't remember why, but I installed a nut and bolt on...

Not a truck, but a Van. I have one on my 340 van, works great. It has no cable, but a solid rod and slide slot for its function. Should not mater.

You should know better than anyone here, being you have both parts on hand and can measure yourself. I had both cars myself a few years ago and I think the 70' may be a little shorter on the frame rails. I would say let the frame rails tell you where to cut, but keep in mind that you will need...

I just checked my 69' and the clutch is 1.5 inches from the fins and the side offset is 1/2" on the left and 2" on the right. Note: being not an AC car, you don't want a Thermal clutch, but a non thermal one so only to rotate at idle and not by the heat of the motor.

My 69 Dart was bought, in 87' with a Hurst Tee handle. That was the first thing to go, I went with the stock ball. I have small handle, so the ball works better than the pistol grip for me.

I agree, the plugs will tell you the health of your engine. Last year I changed my plugs (N-9Y) on my 69 340, manual, at around 70,000 miles and they were clean and tan, just a little wider jap. I do spend around one hour setting the dwell on it's dual point distributor.

Many ways of removing ball joints. I like to use a body shim and place it on the rubber grease cup (to save the cup) and place the tuning fork between the shim and spindle, that way not to tear the cup. Give a couple whacks and it should separate. As some here said, loosen the nut enough so to...

I would figure and price it as a parts car. Anything better is a bonus.

NO JOKE!!!!! A friend called me one day and asked if I would help him move his "Henery J" to the other side of his property. This is what it looked like. Part of the frame was still there, but that was it. Motor and Trany gone.

I use a wire wheel on a bench grinder and they clean up well and quick. If you use vinegar or any other acid solution, you need to equalize the parts in baking soda or Bi-carb.

I had a 70' 340 in my van, but took the motor and Trany out for a rainy day, then scraped the van in 2020 when I moved. That is how I know it is a van or truck 6 qt. oil pan. Remember, the 360 is different and will not work on the other small blocks. The truck or van pan will not work on a stock...

Could also be a Van pan, I have one and the best part of it is, they are 6 Qt. pans, not 5 as in a car. I think having the "J" heads, it could be a 360. which can in the vans and trucks in the 2 BBL platform. I found many "J" heads that way. I made a comment, not seeing a head marking earlier...

I agree toolman, I think it may be a 318 out of a truck or van, by the shape of the oil pan. I would also assume the heads are from a later SB and not a 340. No X,J,O or U castings on the heads.

Be careful, someone may be waiting at your front door when UPS drops it off.

There making a 3-D 833!!!!

May not be what you want to hear, but I would remove the motor and transmission and install the "K" member first. It would be easier to adjust for placement. I have installed several "K" members that way, without issues. Note: Be sure the ends are cleaned out and with fresh grease added...

I think if I was a car theft, I would look into a large industrial or warehouse park, where it is busy and not a isolated area where everyone knows everyone.

What is your enjoyment worth? I spent over $15,000 on my dart in my photo in 87', and hundreds of my hours doing the enjoyable work on it. When done then, it was worth around the same amount of money I spent on it. I still have it and drive it often, after 37 years.

Your red door also has the remote mirror hole in it, while the other door does not. Being your door is already painted, you will need a "remote mirror" also.

I say, the start of a broken bolt is when you insert them into "WHATEVER". I always add a little anti-siege when I install some as the water pumps and timing covers, wheel studs or any other locations that seems suitable. I no they make a high temp sealant for the exhaust, but not sure on an...

That is why you have torque specs. The threads on a larger bolt as you say, should also make the threads in the aluminum heads stronger to hold. Just follow the torque specs and no stripping out the head or breaking a weak bolt.

All my trucks have oil bath bearings and they are the way to go. No greasing needed, just be sure you have enough oil in the rear and do a hard left and right, every now and then. I had one big issue once. Sent a rear drum in to have turned and left the bearing in for the shop to remove in case...

Recalls don't save money. A five cents bolt may cost the manufactor hundreds of dollars for repairs, plus a customer in the future. Save me now, I'll pay later, attitude!!!! A bean counter can save a company money or close them down.

Why does the aftermarket header bolts not break, but the stock one do today. I still say the steel in the bolts used today are inferior. When I commented on lowing the Torque, I didn't mean loose, just take a little pressor off the bolt and allow the gasket to take up some of the expansion. Just...

If it is true what you say 19DART66, then maybe a little less Torque on the bolts could be the answer and allow the manifold gasket to take on the different expansion differences. I think it is just "CHEAP" or the wrong steal being used in their fabrication.

I call it a factory defect. Weather it is the thin manifolds, small bolts or the cheap metal being used in them, it all falls on the pencil pushers. Pay it now or a lot more later. When customers pay 60-90,000 for a vehicle, you would think you are getting the best available. The CEO's needs to...

Why not use Fel-Pro gaskets and match port the gaskets to fit over the gap and under the exhaust lower port. Should be enough pressor to stop a leak. Never had this issue on a sb Mopar, but I did on a Chevy 350 and had to double up on the gaskets to get a good cushion seal.

I have used Ford type "F" transmission fluid in my 727's for years without issues. It has an additive. Ford had a "BETTER IDEA" with that.

Remember the Slick 50 hype.