Search results for query: *

Episode #3 (short) > Full episode Monday on YouTube. ☆☆☆☆☆

Lucky You > Lucky they had them, Lucky they dropped them off. ☆☆☆☆☆

No welding on the cast iron heads. It is the factory cast iron exhaust manifolds that have the steel pivot sleeves in them, that can easily be welded shut with a wirefeed. If you are using headers, problem solved > no heat riser. ☆☆☆☆☆

Clean out the drip rail flange down to clean bare metal. Brush in a good quality primer surfacer, and work it into the gaps where it has been spot welded together. This helps prevent future rust in itself. Let the primer surfacer dry 4 hours, then apply the autobody seam sealer. Smoothing it...

And yes, remove the heat riser in the passenger exhaust manifold. We take the butterfly and shaft out, then weld the 2 steel sleeves shut to block the holes. Now the exhaust will free flow out through the exhaust system, and there will be no hot gasses trying to push across the intake manifold...

You want to get 4 full gallons of coolant into the 360, if not you still have air in the cooling system. 360s run hotter than 273 and 318 small blocks. Harder to cool. ☆☆☆☆☆

Try the search function for members named Jim: ☆☆☆☆☆

'89 D100 pickup, 318. ☆☆☆☆☆

1970 Dodge Dart 318, power steering control valve kit. Advance Auto Parts, check your application. ☆☆☆☆☆

Try putting more air pressure in your front tires. Probably closer to 45 - 50 psi instead of 30 -35 psi. They will turn easier, less taxing to the pump. Like manual steering, it always steers easier if the vehicle is rolling just a bit. Those wider than factory width tires are adding to the...

Thanks That is the exact same brace that came factory on the '89 truck with power steering. There must be a lot of flex force there. Even on the '89 the long arm of the brace severed right there at that elongated hole at the core support. I drilled a 3/8" hole on the good part and bolted it...

If it's not too much trouble, can you put up pictures of those steering sector frame reinforcements so people reading the thread can see what they look like? Thanks ☆☆☆☆☆

Here is the new Gates belt I used on the '89 truck. ☆☆☆☆☆

Just another thought, as people have been talking about the frame cracking at the power steering sector mount. They put the reinforcement plate in there. Think about it though, you turn the wheel and it hits the suspension stop. But the sector wants to keep going flexing the frame and cracking...

Don't turn it full lock, it hard on the pump over pressuring it when it hits the stop. It's not going to turn any farther anyway. ☆☆☆☆☆

Might sound crazy, but have successfully used Anti-Seize to polish and wax out aged chrome header pipes on our off road sand rail dune buggies. Works great. If you ever got anti-seize on your fingers you will know why it works. ☆☆☆☆☆

Change out your power steering fluid. Those valves in the power steering get gummed up over time. Saved one caravan power steering issue with seafoam to break the gum, then a ps fluid change. Still working good today. ☆☆☆☆☆

Throttle Body Injection, electronic TBI distributor, computer onboard voltage regulator that failed. "Message Center" in dash that can most certainly do without anyway. Rigged up temporary gauges to manually monitor engine activity. So no computer needed there. Turn signals work without...

Getting started on the Wiper Arm Bushing rebuild. Got rained out late this morning, pick it up again tomorrow. ☆☆☆☆☆

Lots of Dodge Truck owners on YouTube are doing the heater box clean out port trick, so they don't have to totally dismantle the heater box and dash. ☆☆☆☆☆

It's a marine access removable port, sold at boating stores and also on ebay. That 4" access port is a common size. ☆☆☆☆☆

Feel around the wiring up in there. If something is warm, that is your loose or corroded connection. ☆☆☆☆☆

Dried out leaves ^^^ from Alabama: Beats a stinking rat's nest, any day of the week. Sure glad don't have to deal with mouse nest oder on this project. Like can happen in Minnesota where the mice get in to nest up for the cold Winters. ☆☆☆☆☆

"The Clean Out" This is what needs to be done when a vehicle has sat for 6 years > All Cleaned Out ☆☆☆☆☆

Check your battery with a multimeter, should be 12.3 volts. Then start it up, should read 14.3 volts if it is charging correctly. Your voltage regulator definitely needs a good ground. ☆☆☆☆☆

The smaller electronic upgrade is for upgrading from the earlier mechanical voltage regulator, they work good in this instance. Just replace the newer electronic type you have. If the original OEM part still works, keep using it. Transpo is American Made, most other parts store ones are made...

Take it to the one man shop. Then besides, you won't have 5 different guys working on it and everyone passing the buck as the price goes up. The media blast process, you will have media shaking out of it for the next 50 years, that stuff goes everywhere... even when protected areas are covered...

This "Barcelona Red" paint that I had around from another project actually matches the '89 Red pretty good for touching up. So it was a cheep way to get a sealed finish on the repairs for now. Got this ^ at Advance Auto Parts, think O'Reilly's has it too. ☆☆☆☆☆

Have been using this red oxide primer surfacer from O'Reilly's, pretty good fill and works great as a base with the red truck paint. ☆☆☆☆☆

Yeah, the '89 had the same gouges as yours. Working here outside in the Sunshine State with limited tools. Reached inside the box side from underneath with a 1/2" drive 12" long extension and pounded out the gouges with a 3 lb. hammer. Got it back close, it had a tear opening it it. Cleaned...