Search results

  1. B

    Master cylinder?? Issue.

    You can get rust/sediment in the brake hoses & lines that block the pressure. Try disconnecting the brake lines individually & blowing air through in both directions.
  2. B

    Brake pedal height question

    Looking at the pic in post #2, I see the brake pedal [ unapplied ] is well above the acc pedal. I would think that is normal height & you wouldn't want it any higher. You seem to losing about 2.5" - 3" of travel, before the brakes apply. There can really only be there reasons for that: - what I...
  3. B

    Brake pedal height question

    Manual brakes? Most likely cause of excess pedal travel is the m/c itself. May or may not be adjustable. When you push on the pedal, the seal has to close off the compensating port in the m/c before any pressure in the system is developed. If the piston/seal has to travel a long distance before...
  4. B

    74 Swinger brake CLUNK!

    Did they adjust the brake shoes??? If not adjusted, brakes applied, the shoes get dragged around by the contact with the drum until they hit the stop. When the car changes direction [ eg, R to Fwd ], the shoes reverse direction & hit [ clunk ] the other side of the stop.
  5. B

    Brake conundrum

    I do not see any problem bleeding boosted brakes with the engine running other than the safety aspect. If there is a problem, exactly what is it? Or was it just in a service manual? I can tell you this: some car makers say bleed the longest brake lines first, others say bleed the shortest first...
  6. B

    Brake conundrum

    Doubt if this fault would be bad booster, for two reasons: - it is 'boosting', applying pressure, with the engine running, as evidenced by the pedal moving. - modern boosters are designed with an internal arrangement so that they still apply pressure if the vacuum apply section fails.
  7. B

    Brake conundrum

    Been there, done that... Air still in the system. Booster operating, it supplies more braking force & it is compressing the air in the system.
  8. B

    Brake Shoes sitting wrong

    Any updates?
  9. B

    Brake Shoes sitting wrong

    It is the wheel cyl, you can see that in post #1. Look closely at the shape of the brake shoe, where the extension goes into the wheel cyl. The left side is in further than the rt side. Maybe the wheel cyl pistons are too long.
  10. B

    1970 Dodge Dart front drum breaks

    Go to the Summit web site. They will have the drums listed according to car model.
  11. B

    smelled burning, saw smoke

    Sooo, avoid going to Fedex.....
  12. B

    1" bore master cylinder ?

    Getting down to 7/8" m/c bore, you would want to check that there is enough fluid volume for disc brakes.
  13. B

    68' DART BRAKE WOES

    That era car had res line pressure valves to drum brakes & will NOT gravity bleed. Also drum brakes need an initial adjustment to minimise wheel cyl travel. Excessive travel will result in a low pedal. Pedal goes to floor & is firm. Is it firm because there is no air in the system? If so, it...
  14. B

    Disc Brake Conversion Failing

    I don't see what the big deal is...or safety issue is. The two are obviously different [ from different manufacturers? ] & the shape is different. It is how they operate that is important. While the reservoir divider position is slightly different, the fluid volume that each section contains...
  15. B

    Disc Brake Conversion Failing

    [1] Disc brakes require about 50% more line pressure than drum brakes. That is where the problems start. [2] The factory used a number of methods to make the discs & drums work as a happy couple....Proportioning valve to limit pressure to rear brakes; changed the bore size of the rear wheel...
  16. B

    FROM MANUAL TO POWER

    No way of knowing the bore size unless it is identified on the body. If no markings, you will need to unbolt it & measure it. You probably have enough brake line to move it away from the f/wall far enough without removing the brake lines.
  17. B

    FROM MANUAL TO POWER

    [1] If you have a hard pedal, then you do not have air in the system. [2] System. THE most important word. 'Cause the brakes work as a system. [3] Disk brakes require about 50% more line pressure than drum brakes. So if you are using a drum brake M/C with disc brakes, the bore is probably too...
  18. B

    FROM MANUAL TO POWER

    It depends.... It depends on the bore size of the m/c & the booster you want to fit. If the current man brakes work well, stops the car with reasonable pedal effort, then adding a booster might make the brakes overly sensitive & prone to locking up.
  19. B

    What are the best shoes?

    If your drums are worn & that is quite likely if high mileage, then there will be little contact between the shoe & drum if the shoes are for std size drums. Result will be poor braking until the shoes 'wear into the drum' OR you have them radius ground to your drum size. I get my brake shoes...
  20. B

    "No feedback brakes" go from nothing to full lock

    ^^^^ this. Depending on the booster brand. You can go from noa to whoa... Bendix boosters have a rubber disc inside them that controls pedal feel. Leave it out, & the brakes will put you through the windscreen....
  21. B

    Brake Pedal Returns Slow

    Slow releasing brakes should not cause this problem because the return spring in the booster should return the pedal. Either binding pedal linkage, broken spring inside the booster or internal [ valve ] problem inside the booster.
  22. B

    Bearing race ?

    With the amount of damage a locked up brg on a trailer can cause & how cheap brgs are, why would you risk it??
  23. B

    Finned vs smooth brake drum

    I think the fins would help in two ways. Extra metal exposed to the air to dissipate heat. The fins will probably generate some turbulence & help with heat dissipation.
  24. B

    Brake pedal issues after installing power unit

    Assuming nothing is binding, the booster does not have an internal return spring, either by design...or they forgot it... You will either have to replace the booster or rig up your own spring to the pedal.
  25. B

    Spindle Nut Torque - 9 in Drum Brakes????

    The nut should be tightened [ to ensure the brgs are fully seated ] & then backed off to the next slot in the nut. Ball & roller brgs require some endplay.
  26. B

    Getting my *** handed to me.. these damm brakes

    [1] If you pump the pedal, pedal comes up, & you THEN have a hard brake, it is NOT air in the system. It is a mechanical problem. Most likely the prod in the booster travels too far before it contacts the piston in the m/cl. Some prods are adjustable/ [2] Squishing noise is air entering the...
  27. B

    Rear Drum Brake Help

    I owned 1958 -59 Custom Royals & 1960-61 Dodges. They all had the 'total contact' brakes, which were also called 'centre plane' brakes. They were 11", the front brakes were a twin leading shoe design with each brake shoe having it's own wheel cyl. Brake adjustment was done via a 7/16" hex...
  28. B

    Rear Drum Brake Help

    OK. So what 'body' would a 63-64 Plym Belvedere 4 door sedan be, 119" WB? Or 63-64 Dodge?
  29. B

    Rear Drum Brake Help

    Wasn't a 63 Dart a B body? I owned 62, 63 & 64 cars. These models were sold here as Plym Belv/Dodge Phoenix. Had 10" brakes. Valiants were sold as Chrysler Valiant, starting around 1961. Had 9" brakes.
  30. B

    Rear Drum Brake Help

    The shoes are not reversed......they are the wrong shoes!! If you study the pic, the length of the lining is the same for each shoe. The lining on the front shoe should be shorter than the lining on the rear shoe. For all four wheels. Check all of the shoes, could have got mixed up. Agree with...
Top