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It helps to increase low-end torque. The theory is that the alternating bursts of pressure can help to pull exhaust away from the engine. "X" pipes are even better.

4-speed. Making good consistent runs with a 4-speed is all about practice and once you have it down there is a feeling of personal accomplishment that you never get from an automatic. They are also way more fun on the street. Autos definitely have their advantages but for me manual is the only...

The other nice thing about Racer Brown cams is that you do not have to degree them. Yes, you have to make sure it is installed correctly but the installed position is selected and ground into the cam for your specific application. There are several great cam manufacturers out there but Racer...

You are welcome. Good decision. As I said, Jimmy is the best. You'll be glad you worked with him and you will learn a lot in the process.

Call Jimmy at Racer Brown. (410) 866-7660. Tell him exactly what you have, exactly what you want to do, and if they don't have the perfect cam for your application they can cut it for you. Jimmy has been one of the top MOPAR guys in town since I was a teenager. Don at FBO had this to say about...

The science is amazing. Just the physics of getting the perfect headers is fascinating.

I just used 90% as a good number for most engines and a 7,000RPM redline since none was listed. At or slightly above 100% an 850 would be perfect. Have you seen one over 100% without forced induction? I know a supercharged engine can top out at 112% to 115% but N/A can as well?

Maybe, maybe not. Using a 7,000RPM redline and 90% volumetric efficiency (which is rarely attained) your engine should not ever pull in more than just under 750cfm of air. Going bigger may actually result in reduced performance because the air velocity through the carb, and therefore the booster...

A lot of guys will tell you to go bigger but going by the numbers all you will need is a 750.

When I bought my car it was race-only. Check out the breather setup that was on it: This was taken around 25 years ago, not long after I bought it. Four breathers on really tall stacks to keep them from "blowing off" as I was told. It still had the dual point back then too. A quarter...

You don't have to use an additive. There are still oils available with plenty of ZDDP. Look at some of the existing threads about this.

As everyone has said, that is fine. Those are good numbers. Mine sits at 85psi cold and dips to about 45psi when idling and hot.

I heard that the Zinc content in rotella is decreasing but I am not sure. That would be bad if you have a flat tappet engine. There are plenty of threads on the topic here so I don't mean to start a new discussion.

PING clunk clunk clunk clunk clunk clunk clunk.

Hilarious.

Exactly correct. The whole package has to work together.

Jim is a great guy and knows his stuff as well as anyone. He was one of the top MOPAR guys here in Maryland back when I was a dumb kid and I am 46 now. I have known him for over 25 years and I guarantee that you can trust what he says and what he builds.

Me too. I am not sure that anyone can do it better than the people who designed the engine in the first place. (The guy who runs Racer Brown is an old friend of mine and he would hate to hear me say that). My 383 was actually built back in the early 70's while still in the hands of the original...

Oh yes. It is better to be fast than it is to sound fast.

I have that one in my 383 - 11.5 to 1, big valves, 750 on a single plane, big tube fenderwell headers and a 4-speed. It idles at 900RPM with a mild lope and flies when you crack it open. A great choice.

Here's an easy way to determine the corrrect initial advance for your particular setup: Start the car and let it warm to operating temperature then shut it off. Advance the timing 2° and let it sit for 3 -5 minutes to allow the temperature to spike. Fire it back up. Did it pull the...

Lots of good info Ace. A lot of it jives with what I have read. The part about ZDDP concentrations over 1400 was one. The numbers I saw were not to exceed 1500 by much because of the ash issue. I don't know about what they say about just going ahead and using the 800ppm stuff though. as I said...

Amsoil's stuff is sold in stores around here but it is still cheaper to sign up as a preferred customer and get it from Amsoil, even with the shipping cost.

It isn't that any oil is "not street legal" meaning that using them is breaking any law. The difference is that any lube that is marketed as a "racing oil" or "off-road" oil does not have to meet any particular standard.

Everything I have ever read said it does not matter whether the oil is synthetic or not. For a flat tappet engine you need the ZDDP. Every cam manufacturer I have seen a statement from agrees.

Oh yes, British Columbia. It is a little colder up there than it is here in Maryland. My car only holds about 10 psi more than yours hot and cold.

A good choice. VR-1 is good stuff. Do you use 10W-30 all year? I have always stuck with 20W-50.

If you are using VR-1 you have no worries. It is good stuff.

Thanks, I didn't know that. XL is their cheapest stuff. I didn't look at it. I only looked at the stuff that they market for performance applications. I stand corrected. I should not have said "everything they make now" when I did not look at their cheap stuff.

Terry. You did pretty good. Most people say they never get a reply from them. I got pretty much the same one you did. Probably a form letter.