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This is something that I have thought about a bit. As crazy as it sounds, my cars setup really leans towards a radial style. The sidewall of the redline is pretty stiff and a radial car is usually under tired for the power level. I haven’t been able to dynamically test my therory, but I did...

I’m curious as to why it’s better. Is it because you are actually using the sidewall as tread or the change in sidewall angle might make the sidewall less rigid vertically? It must take a higher tire pressure?

So the belts you have are 7480 and 7370. The first 7 is the width of the belt, the last three numbers are the length. 48” and 37”. If they are 4” too long go buy a 7440 and 7330. If the number is 7485 it is 48.5” long. There are a number of water pump pulley dia. A/C, non A/C etc.

When it dies, will it start right up clean or does it misbehave a bit on start up. Start up clean it probably was lean. Misbehaves and it is having to burn the raw fuel off the plugs. I REALLY like running an AFR gauge in a car. When the car has an issue. The gauge will quickly reduce the number...

The kick down lever should be all the way back on the transmission when you are at WOT. It shouldn’t hammer the linkage, but should be fully back.

Pinion snubber was a cheap solution to a problem that is much easier and better solved differently now a days. A snubber is just too violent. Shocks are just so much better at controlling axle movement. You give me a “snubber” that uses an adjustable small shock and I would play around with it...

Definitely had door panels to start at least. I always planned on taking more pictures of it, but not my car or shop. Was very nice getting a chance to see an original one. :)

Play with tire pressures. Spin the tire in the street, you want an even color all the way across. Dark outer edges? Add 2 lbs. Dark center? Lower 2 lbs. Continue until it is even.

Unless you have seriously old rear springs, just leave them alone. The front A body spring section is so short, you really need a bunch of power and a sticky tire to get wheel hop. My advice is to avoid the puddles that form in front of the burn out box. Line up a bit offset. Don’t spin the tire...

A mixture of driver side timing tab and 68 water pump is not that bad as long as the balancer has marks for the driver side tab. If you find it a problem to see the marks. Just get it to TDC, then make or find a bolt on passenger side pointer. Then install timing tape.

I have the MB clutch unit IIRC. Running it with a 68 pump. 3/4” from the original 340 A/C radiator.

I think you’re running into “trying to get back to 10.5” it probably never was 10.5, higher that other LA’s? Yes, true 10.5 probably not. The deck heights are usually higher than spec. How far in the hole are your pistons. I would lean towards the cometics. Probably overkill, but the lack of a...

Are you SURE what you found is for an LA small block? Most of the clutches have slots. So unless the slots are not spaced equally, it should fit most water pump bolt patterns. I actually don’t think there are different patterns though.

I was thinking about ceramic coating my exhaust manifolds to cut down on under hood temps. Looking at the claims on the websites, it seemed reasonable. I know someone who did just that. Inside and out. IR temp gun says it’s a waste of time in regards to heat control. 5 degrees of decrease in...

I was required to run a “race” tire on drag week. It was the only 14” that would work.

In competition I have to run this tire. Testing I run the M&H

In competition F70-14 redline lines, last week testing was a 14” M&H DOT Musclecar tire. My limited converter flash, (3500) doesn’t let me use all the M&H tires ability. Which works out just fine for me. More apples to apples, just more repeatable.

Last weekend it ran a 11.24 at 119 with a 1.60 60’, but was with a M&H DOT race tire, not the required F70-14 redline So it doesn’t count, but the M&H DOT tire doesn’t make the car quicker. Just easier to drive. I believe a high 11 teen is possible with a redline tire. Replacing the radiator...

My wide lobe separation helps with the exhaust manifolds.

Summit has a nice calculator when you look a pistons. You need to know Bore Stroke Dome CC’d + or - zero deck? Chamber cc’s

I’m running PAC 1903’s at 1.80 on this cam. Pulls through 7000 rpm 135 on the seat 340 over the nose

318’s are kinda their own special animal that a number of people have “been there, done that” on what the low hanging fruit would be. I personally would put exhaust manifolds down the list some. This just comes from my personal experience running 340 manifolds. Not the same animal, but under...

Honestly, it’s just a number. In a well sorted car 500 hp will easily get you into roll bar territory. Not sure of your end goal.

According to a calculator 434 hp at the rear tire, but that seems a bit high to me.

The Eagle is fine for what it’s intended use is, but it is pretty easy to make enough power to get it out of its comfort zone. Also it is such a catastrophic event when they break.

I’m running 118-119 mph at 3300 lbs.

If that is an Eagle cast crank I would change it. I would do nothing to make more power with that crank. I wouldn’t hesitate to go with Molnar. In fact, they are on my very short list.

List everything you know about the combo. I have mine in a note on the phone. I just copy and paste when asked. I have a “somewhat” similar cam. You have more intake and exhaust flow than I do, but I have more head flow,CI,and compression and mine is like the DEVIL! “Come on, it’s only a couple...

Fuel pressure?

Eagle cast crank? I would definitely change it. Forged, I see no reason. Currently running Scat cast crank, shifting at 6500 crossing the stripe at 6800-7000, but a clock is ticking. I know practically nothing in regards to cams. I would call a reputable company and tell them what you have and...