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That’s just silly, what changes the color of the threads? Throw the plug in the ocean and take a peek at it a mile down. No change, plenty of pressure, no heat.

Thread color does not indicate cylinder pressure. It gives you an idea if your plug heat range is close. 3-4 darker threads and you’re in the ball park. Not a concrete indicator.

I run this one. It uses plastic keys to set the mechanical advance. Mine is set for 10 degrees. DODGE Summit Racing SUM-851006 Summit Racing™ Billet Electronic Mopar Distributors | Summit Racing

9.5” converter?

the coloring will be different pump gas to race gas. The VP blue I run is…..well…. blue. The dye and the lead effect what the plugs look like. C12 is green. The cut plug I posted is more than likely VP blue.

Sorry, was interchanging terms. I don’t care about my stall number really. I wanted flash to 3500 and they speced 5500 flash because they didn’t read the sheet and pretty much everything else in my combo would like 5500 in flash. The 6” tire and my description of the class just says no! :) I’m...

Have two converters by them, very happy with both. I did fill out the spec sheet for the last one sent it in. I got a five word email response that told me they had not read the spec sheet. “8” 5500 stalll,$950 + shipping” Went through CRT to get it and it flashes to exactly 3500 rpm. Which is...

Fuel pressure does not mean fuel in the bowl. Don’t think fuel is your problem though. An issue I ran into is the rotor being too high in relation to the cap terminal. So the arc marks were up not out towards the terminal face. It would flutter a bit at higher rpm’s. Very subtle. Filed the...

Do you have a 4” angle grinder? With a cutoff wheel cut the crimp. Red line and pull the porcelain out. This is what you’ll be left with. Don’t compare yours to this though.

Yeah, FAST wasn’t there, just looking to run the car. Atwood’s would have come down if it got bumped to Sunday. The weather kept Bill D away. The others are just lame!!!:)

Then in the “last chance” round, left a bit early. Hard to run a sportsman tree for me. Saw his win light so I just legged it out.

Then drove over to Maple Grove and made 6-7 runs. Pretty wet air, and cold, was a bit squirmy. Two competition rounds. Lost in the first round. I dumped at the line until he popped up to my door, but not enough.

Made one run at Cecil County on Friday for street night. Then it sprinkled. Lot of moisture in the air, but happy with the run. Chicken footed it a bit according to the data.

As to pushrod length, what type of retainer does the lifter have? Cheap wire or sturdy snap ring? Look to see if the cup is against the snap ring. If it is, then adjust it as normal with an adjustable pushrod and measure it. Wire retainer, I would go deeper to keep the cup away from the wire...

Can’t you just set up the cylinder, adjust the lifter until it bottoms out the lifter and use the clay method. Put the lifter under spring pressure and put a dial ind on the retainer. When it stops collapsing set zero lash.

Either stepped on the throttle because she was pissed and it was taking too long to get to the turn or throttle issues.

Looks like the tires didn’t lock but started to spin.

I drive 13-16 hours a couple of times a year to run and went to Gateway once. The recipe isn’t a secret, get 4-8 racers with cars and interest and reach out to a track near you. Tell them you run a Stock Appearing Stock tire style and see if they will give you a lane for a day. There is a group...

Working on it, a group will probably head down to Musclepalooza for the 4/13.

My 9.5” PTC flashes to 3500 rpm and is absolutely no issues on the street. Slips 3-4 % at the stripe. I have run 3:23’s in the car. Never lacked low end power. The car will kill you in an instant on the street.

Cecil canceled due to weather. Used the two days off to work on a project. Will probably run musclepalooza or NPK’ 7.0 class and get smoked, but want to run the car. Tired of trying to figure out how much freeing up 20 ft/lbs of torque and dropping 39 lbs will do for me!!!

I wouldn’t put a dime into a cast iron head if I wasn’t required to. I’m at touch over 400 with my highly ported x heads. If the cast head needs work, save up and go aluminum. Repairable/lighter/better casting/easier to get ported. Rebuilding a set of cast heads isn’t really financially smart...

I run autolite copper 65’s in my 12.2 to 1 x head. Gapped to 38, They are a couple of bucks each and I don’t feel guilty just throwing new plugs in on a whim or pulling one and cutting the crimp to look at it. I run the black msd street fire wires. I have found they are pretty sensitive to...

So it went down the distributor hole? I would put a magnet down the hole to make sure it is not in the valley. Then I would pull the oil pump drive shaft, if it is hiding in the gear drive, you should see it or it will fall. Then it will end up in the pan. I would just REALLY look to make sure...

I removed my choke linkage. Also epoxied aluminum rod in the shaft holes and blended.

Studs or bolts?

I have loaned out my spare 6AL three different times.

Three places you need oil. Pushrod tip, rocker fulcrum and valve tip. With pushrod only oiling, the oil goes through the pushrod and exits through a hole in the rocker cup. Collects in the rocker body and lubes the fulcrum. Also gets thrown towards the valve spring area by rocker action. With...

I know why people use them, but my opinion is who cares about the number, it is pretty meaningless. I had mine run on a chassis dyno. The number was 348 at the tire, but it runs 118 at 3290 lbs. The true benefit of a dyno is testing/showing how and where it makes power and logging data. The...

As to your question “where does the oil go when it dead ends in the rocker shaft” it doesn’t dead end. The rocker shaft has grooves cut in it that allow oil to lubricate the rockers and shafts. Also the “leaked” oil is “directed” to the tip of the rocker to cool the springs. If you are talking...