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Mine (Lisle) has held up just fine for over three decades.

And they go, "iT IsN't A cuLt!!!1!1!!!11!!!", just like every member of every cult in the history of ever. ("…it is not a pyramid scheme! Is not! Is not! Is not times infinity, so there!"…)

Ahhhhhh, Bob Is The Oil Guy. For when you want to stay up til 3:45AM with sixty browser tabs open, reading all the 39-page-long threads about how this or that or the other filter rules and sucks, where it was built and in what month, the construction and apparent materials of each part...

Are you running a '68 or later engine (or, more to the point, a '68-up crankshaft)? If so, and the appropriate spacer ring wasn't put between the larger '68-up crankshaft counterbore and the smaller '67-down torque converter nose, the result will be as you describe.1 Correct, see here.

See here for the info you need (pics and part numbers of the various terminal adapters for that starter to put the connections where you need them)

Oh, uh-huh. Three times, very fine, real nice. Perhaps one day you will encounter your first Slant-6 that doesn't respond to what you seem to think is a sure-fire cure. Perhaps another day long after that one, you'll encounter your tenth. Your 20th. Maybe you'll live long enough to meet your...

Hot-idle compensators were on '70-'71 Carter BBS and Holley 1920 carbs, in response to higher underhood temperatures brought on by emission control strategies such as retarded base timing and higher-temp thermostats. They worked, but added cost, so they were deleted. GM (Rochester Carburetor)...

Who should stop what? I'm guessing your order is aimed at…uh…everyone giving advice that differs from yours, then, is it? Asking for a friend with enough experience on this question on this kind of engine to know that the thick carb base gasket/insulator needs to be there, yes, but often isn't...

…and there is always, always, always more/worse than you see in the pre-buy inspection. Always.

Oops, you're right and I was wrong on that. Up to '68, and '69-only.

Correct. The ignition lock cylinder is '60-'69.

Some of them yes, some of them no. Consider turn signal switches: the vast majority of them on the market right now are Chinese junk, but they're not all the same. Some of them are even crummier than others. Some of that is more than one "company" in China making a given part — it's more common...

Slant-6-centred carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post. As soon as you can, get the three books listed in this thread.

Classic Industries is a garbage company selling garbage parts at LOLWTF prices. They do not deserve money. Standard Motor Products door lock pair DL2, ignition lock US12L. Readily available for cheap money anywhere Standard is sold (Rockauto, Amazon, etc), or if you want better quality, look on...

Shirley. Come back and post yer "after" pics!

Remove, clean (toothbrush + dishsoapy hot water), dry, polish (plastic polish), clean (alcohol), restore lettering (Wite-Out), scratch extra Wite-Out off surface of bezel when it's set enough to sink into the letters but before it's hard-dry (fingernail or edge of credit card), shoot 'em with...

For whoever wants to emulate 66DVert's work, read this.

Right, but saying it another way doesn't change much. The point is: get new seatbelts complete with new hardware.

Keep in mind that seat belts were strictly aftermarket items in '62. There was enormous variety in what was stocked, sold, and installed even at dealerships. So there is nothing such as a "1962 Lancer seat belt clamp". See here and then here.

Shift yer thinkin'. It is no longer possible to get worthy parts (if any) for your 61-year-old car by walking into a local auto parts store. Pump you need, in quality worth messing with, is a № 2072 from Steer and Gear. No, it won't come with the reservoir or pulley; those have to be re-used...

Can do an end-run around the 'inferiority' of an orifice tube with a SmartVOV, which is more or less a TXV configured to drop in place of an orifice tube.

I make my own. It has ingredients in. Whatever I cook with it disappears very fast. These beans with bacon, like such as:

Naw, we don't got to have no steeeeeeeeeeeeenking "AI". Just fields for year-model-engine-trans-modifications, which must be filled out (even if "N/A") in order for the question to post.

This is a misunderstanding. TXV and clutch cycling aren't either/or, they're both-and. On its own, the TXV will keep right on doing its thing to (and past) the point where the evaporator is encased in a solid block of ice. Every A/C system Chrysler (among many other automakers) ever put in a...

@Mattax your inbox is full

…also, why are you thinking about replacing your ignition module?

Horseѕhit. They're gobs better in terms of both handling and ride than the OE shocks, way better than OE-replacement junk (Monroe, Gabriel, etc). And they are well more than plenty good enough for pretty much any A-body with a stock or near-stock suspension and steering system.

That really is a screamin' deal in terms of dollar outlay and value for dollar. Yes, Bilsteins are nicer…also yes, they're a lot more money.

Yup, offered for Slant-6 Dodge trucks starting around 1968. Called a "Flood-Check kit", listed in the '63-'68 Dodge Truck FPC as "pressure bypass kit" (Psst, Mattax: that 14-73-3 you were tryna trace to a TSB number is just the part type code it's listed under). I think it was a PFR (purchase...

The mod MadScientistMat is described (parts and procedure) here. Fuel pump: careful; new parts store items are garbage. More specifically, New \6 fuel pumps tend to be much poorer quality than we used to be able to get, and they've been coming through with much-too-strong diaphragm springs...