Search results for query: *

Keep this in mind. If you buy aluminum heads you still have to have them checked out!!! Dont run anything out of the box. I bought my Stealths for $1000 and still had to have $450 worth of work.....recut seats....checking guides.....replacing retainers and locks. Now days with prices up to $1499...

You cant do a compression test with a breaker bar!!!!! Oil the cylinders and top end then get a starter on it. Squirting a little oil in the intake and exhaust ports will help.

Make Your Own DC-K Frame even stock mounts require the steering box mount to be trimmed back

The rockers and intake are worth more than what you paid. Plus the heads are most likely machined for double springs! Tach drive distributor and early chrome valve covers.....score

Check this out, its wild and slant six powered!!

Direct drive vs Belt driven

Here are original Cranes. They have the same grooves and oil holes. They were always a very strong rocker arm. If the 440 source are anything like the originals you'll be fine! There were also Crane knock offs made by Elgin or Crane made them for Elgin.

Schumacher sells a shim pack. The kit should come with a bunch of shims that fit under the mount. Different sizes which add up to over 1" of shims.

From what I remember the side with the two holes is for B and RB motors. looks like 4 1/2" vs 5 1/4" center to center. The other two sides are common.

I will check today. Sorry for the late reply

Are you looking for the cast bracket that bolts to the head?

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/hrdp-0712-mopar-intake-manifold-comparo/

Actually a 68 Valiant. That was the first engine. Closed chambered 516 heads hyd Comp cam .525 lift RPM manifold. Ran low 12s in street trim. Changed to RPM heads, 590 mech cam and Proparts headers. Went low 11s in street trim (complete exhaust and interior)

Cut the hole bigger and shim mount. Schumacher mounts on a 6cyl K frame, no problems

I dont see the lower bearing on the column. Do you have one?

You can also elongate the trans mount holes to give you an extra 1/2" of front to back movement.

Stock BB steering box will fit even with PS. See post # 22. The only mod was to trim the outer column.

187 or 699 pans will work. I have a baffle template for these pans if anyone needs it. Print it to fit an 8.5"x11" sheet of paper, then glue it to the sheet metal and trim.

You may have the mounts turned 90 degrees or even 180.That will bring the motor forward about 2 inches. Made that mistake myself. Also did it come with the shim pack? I used the shims to level it once it was in. Do you have a picture of the drivers side?

Here are some flow numbers for BB Chrysler heads. Early heads pre 66 are not even listed except for Max Wedge heads. Numbers speak for themselves. Stan Weiss' - Cylinder Head Flow Data at 28 Inches of Water -- DFW / FLW Flow Files for use with Engine Simulation Software

The early BB heads had small valves 1.94 and 1.60 with low flow numbers. 67 and up heads flowed 20-30 cfm better stock

I usually put a thin slit in the bottom, which causes the diameter to squeeze a little smaller. Then tap it in with an open end and a hammer. I do use sealant on the end.

Take a look at this post, over 400HP from a smog motor! Dyno testing a stock(?) 1972 440

You can put the column in first, just trim the outer sleeve back. Install the manifolds and it will drop right in. An access hole for #6 plug will help. Take a look!

Flat top speed pros have almost 1/2" of aluminum on top. Plenty of room to notch them.

Here are the tubes off the car. I think you can see where they separate.

I used the shims to center and align the motor.

Proparts are semi fenderwell. Two tubes on drivers side and one tube on passenger side exit the femderwells.

here ya go