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Hooked up enough of the harness to make it run. The vacuum leak is from using bolts to plug hoses. Not sure why it's missing when revved.

Not much. I took what I needed and sold the rest.

If anyone is wanting to remove the power steering pump from a Magnum and still use the factory brackets and serpentine belt, it can be done with some research. 90's Dakotas could be ordered without power steering and air conditioning. There is a part number for that belt, but it was discontinued...

Had a few minutes to get a picture of the torsion bar end. Here's what is on it. I also looked up my PST order from April 2020. The are 1.03" bars. I have a hard time believing they measured .110" bigger in diameter than advertised. Maybe they're rated by spring rate equivalent to a 1.03" bar?

I'll have to look. I'll let you know.

Thanks for the information. To be honest, I don't remember what website or company I bought the torsion bars from, and the box wasn't marked. Google shows that PST makes 1.12" bars for A bodies, and that's probably what these are with 0.020" of powder coating. I looked on BAC's site at the RCD...

The car didn't ride too bad on the super stocks. You could tell the spring rate was higher on the rear compared to the stock front torsion bars. I took the first, shortest leaf out of the spring pack before I put the springs on the car. It looks like it sits level, haven't measured the rear ride...

"Looks great except for the KYB's. Those will be absolutely atrocious with 1.14" bars if that's what you've got there, I thought PST only made 1.03's. Either way the KYB's are awful. I ran them on my Challenger with 1.12" bars and when I swapped them out for Bilsteins it was like a whole new...

Thanks for all of the discussion and advice on this. I found the quickener on Facebook Marketplace in upstate NY. The guy is shipping it Monday and that saves me a 6 hour round trip from Harrisburg, PA. My next question would be, should the quickener be before the EPAS unit or after? I wanted...

Yes, years ago I manual steering swapped a '73 Scamp with a 318. I used 24:1 and the column from a Duster. The Scamp drove fine, and I don't remember it being it being to difficult to maneuver or park. I am upgrading the electrical system with a complete harness and charging system from a '94...

Thanks for posting this. I had read your post about having a 16:1 box with larger tires in a different thread and I understand the amount of effort that would require. I plan on using a Toyota Prius EPAS unit. I haven't had time to make the parts and modifications to my steering column yet. I'll...

That was my concern, being too responsive.

I have a '71 Dart Swinger and am in the process of replacing my front suspension with QA1 and PST parts. The car originally had power steering and I'm swapping it out for a 24:1 manual steering box. The plan was to convert to electric power steering and get a 16:1 manual steering box from PST...

Video of it running. In the first seconds of the video, you can hear it misfire out the exhaust. The distributor and carb were on the original 318 and didn't do that before.

Finally made some progress pulling the 318 that was in my car. No matter how careful I am, I manage to make a mess. She's in there like swim wear. I know the electric fuel pump needs to be close to the gas tank. This is set up to test run it. These headers fought me every step of the way...

Thanks for posting this. Interesting solution to get some more advance.

Sending the OBD II PCM out might be the most cost effective solution. I just want to drive this car and do some cone dodging/autocross with it.

I really appreciate the time and knowledge you guys have given me. Once I get the garage straightened out I'll continue with the engine swap. For the time being ill run it on the Dakota's OBD I computer, but I have a couple of options for engine management and I would like your opinions. I know...

Thanks for posting the video. I'll have to watch it and set the base timing for ccam sync.

Welp, I figured out my tubeyubes. Here you go.

That makes sense.

Yes, there are two. The one for the gauge only has one wire and the one for the computer has two.

The coolant temp sensor was broken, too. You would think if the temp sensor was bad it throw a CEL.

Glad that video worked. The Dakota's organs were harvested at my buddy's shop and didn't have time to troubleshoot why it ran so bad. After pulling the engine I found the CPS had been broken and taped back together. Well there's your problem. That, and the exhaust system was about to fall off.

For some reason YouTube isn't letting me upload videos without going through a verification process. Until they figure out I am actually me, here's a video from 5 years ago of how bad the engine ran in the Dakota. Let me know if this video works or Google is trying to spy on you for thinking...

Ok, I'll upload them.

I'm not sure what's going on with that. I uploaded the videos to Google Docs so I could post them. Was it both videos, or just the second?

Second start after advancing the distributor. I know, not the right thing to do. Ran a little better, but still extremely rich. At the end of the video you can see my improvised "fuel cell."

First start. It was pig rich and didn't want to rev up.

Thanks again for the great responses! I got it running! It was a combination of problems with the fuel system. First thing was to check for pressure. Well there's your problem, no fuel pressure. I didn't have a spare pressure regulator like I thought. What I had was the Dakota's original...