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Is there something inside the oil ring? I guess that could be something in there after the damage started.

I was reading back through to see if the ring gaps were mentioned but I have not seen that yet. Any chance it actually butted the second ring, breaking it first and torching it second? I am not experienced in boost, so I am asking honestly if that can happen. I don't really understand how it...

I use these discs too. Love them. Last a good while too. I thought I remember them having steel bristles inside those plastic bristles but I have not paid attention to it in a while.

I was reading back through this one again to see what those pistons were. It never would have broke if you had not said this in post 316.

A few years ago someone on this site was recommending carbide tipped gasket scrapers. I bought one to try and it is pretty awesome. The tip is not deteriorating like regular steel or plastic scrapers. That means it stays sharp and allows it to cut through really caked on gaskets and sealers...

You can use either one of those or the cobalt recomended. Use a sharp new bit with cutting oil and don't go too fast. The cast iron will drill much easier than you are expecting. If you do break one of those three types of bits, which are really just coatings on the bits, you will have one more...

Good things come to those who wait. Don’t worry so much. DVW says that guy is good. I would much rather wait longer from a really good small shop instead of rushing it through a high volume shop with lower standards. I am hoping you’ll be impressed with his work. We have a long winter ahead still.

These days, there is good roller lifters available with inboard link bars and no giant rivet heads. I am thinking those should greatly reduce the grinding needed to prevent this, but I have no experience with them yet.

At least your block is at the shop, in line for the work. That is good. My junk is still sitting in the garage taking up space.

He'll be decking it to true it up anyway, won't he?

Are you still building yours or has it been running a while? I remember you posting before about this and it is one of the very few I have seen with the Victor heads.

Any update on your block, when machining will start? Probably any time now I would think. Looking forward to hearing about your experience with him.

It's winter here Michigan. Are you planning to actually drive it with that carb on or just idle tuning in the garage? I enjoy tinkering, but may not be worth the effort unless you are going to take it out for a drive.

How about posting the previous part number without pushrod oiling and the new part number with pushrod oiling. Seams like that could be helpful in this type of thread.

PRH, I am pretty sure you are correct. They even had an article on one with stuck valves and that it needed to be fixed with bronze liners, but then at the end of the article they say something like "oh, and it had an intake air temp sensor reading wrong so we replaced that too." Fuel injected...

It can't be "just" the stainless steel unless those particular valves are some kind of weird alloy. Plenty of factory and aftermarket cast iron heads were upgraded to stainless valves over the years and were not really prone to sticking the valves. At least not that I remember. So if clearance...

Do you know what the valve guide clearance was set at when the heads were built? What valves are in these heads? Were the valves purchased separately from bare heads or were these the valves that came in the assembled version from EQ?

Does that mean PPP does not offer the side plate upgrade parts? You had to get a new shifter?

Nothing at all wrong with this plan. I would do it the same way. My first “hotrod” was complete pile of rusty junk that I bought with no engine or transmission. That car was so much fun to drive but it was just as much fun getting it together and running. The memories are worth the effort.

Doing it this way will not give the required radial clearance. You will still have to manually grind the radial clearance. I have the Lindy tool mentioned in post 3 for 2.08" valve diameters. It worked well and it has the radial clearance built into the cutter head. If I remember correctly...

Stock style timing chain is fine for this and is the cheapest. In fact, if you are a RockAuto user they have one by SA Gear in the closeout parts for a 2000 Ram truck for about $17, but you'd have to check shipping cost to see if it is worth it. You will have to decide if that transmission...

The 2000 model year still has the LA mount locations, so that should be no problem. Do you have the flex plate that was originally on the rear of the crankshaft? It will have the correct 5.9 Magnum balance weight. Depending the transmission you go with, you may be able to use the flex plate by...

What year is this engine? Make sure it has the LA style engine mount positions on both sides of the block. I heard the very late blocks no longer had those but I have not verified that yet. I think I see them in your pictures but want to make sure before it is potentially overlooked. Since you...

Those were original style head gaskets, so it probably has not been apart before. That is good. If all the cylinder bores look that good, meaning no rust, you will be in business. How far are you taking it apart?

No need to keep head bolts in any order. That should be a power steering cooler and will not be needed with your swap.

The Magnum engines can use the same dipstick and tube as an LA. Specifically, you are matching the dipstick and tube with the oil pan being used. So if a car style center sump LA oil pan is used you install the LA dipstick and tube that normally matches that oil pan.

Here is the layout differences between the accessory mounting holes of Magnum heads and LA heads. I was going to redo this so the upper Magnum holes are on there but I have been busy. Top is front of the right bank cylinder head and bottom is front of the left bank cylinder head.

The Edelbrock 7577 is made specifically to fit the Magnum heads. It has the correct bypass hose location and angle to match the Magnum water pump bypass connection. It has the correct offset thermostat housing location to clear the Magnum air conditioning bracket. If I recall correctly, the one...

I am so sorry this happened. It was a very cool build. Do you plan to post a teardown thread so we can learn what happened?

Skip the Whiplash and get something made for your combination. Or, since that is going to be expensive, do the regrind and plan to advance it.