Search results for query: *

It looks like every other modern replacement. I also no longer have the car. But, the picture of the box in the first post has the part number and where I purchased it from on it. Should be 1963-1976 like the factory unit.

Measuring with an ohm meter, it is 10ohms full, 78ohms empty. 28ohms is roughly half a tank if I remember correctly. The replacement senders you buy from anyone, Spectra included, are generally 0-100ohms and are linear. They will not work the gauge correctly. As stated, your gauge with that...

Well, I bought one that said it was for an AP6 Valiant, and it made the gauge work correctly.

If you look at his pictures, it's not just the seal contacting. The entire caliper is scraping the rotor. They are an interference fit. Definitely incorrect rotors.

I have no intentions of rebuild the calipers on the car. New, or reman replacement calipers are readily available for relatively cheap. About $85 with a $20 core each, or $86 each for new ones from Rockauto. The rotors have been the complicated part the whole time, but it appears SSBC still...

Well @JDMopar seems to be right, this is an old SSBC kit. Hard to tell through all of the dirt and paint, but it is there on the calipers. Thankfully, they do still sell parts for it. Expensive, but parts exist. I guess I'm down to pricing out which is the least expensive: convert the car to big...

I will look at that tomorrow. I am aware of what's needed for the Volare spindle swap. I did it on my 74 Dart Sport. Like I said, the front end needs rebuilt anyway, so I'll just buy new control arms; they are readily available on Summit. The problem I see with this, is if I were to need...

That looks exactly like what is on this car. So, it's all Mustang parts? Was there a thin wheel spacer that was part of that? There's an 1/8" spacer, I guess to make the wheel clear the caliper. And like I said, the center of the front wheels has been hacked out, but they appear to run true. I...

They are small bolt pattern. But after looking closer, this is either a really old conversion, or someone made different rotors fit. The center of both front wheels has been opened up (poorly) to accommodate the hub. Looking in the unused holes in the rotor, it was meant for something else, and...

I recently acquired a 1972 Dart that has the 4-piston Kelsey Hayes brakes. I'm wondering where I can get replacement rotors. Everything I've seen online is for the slightly older style with a separate hub that the rotor attaches to. This car has unicast rotors; no removable hub. Do replacements...

Okay, clutch update. The Borg and Beck pressure plate has broken; stress fractures around all of the mounting bolts. I called Brewer's to ask about their clutch kit. Not wanting to spend $800 and not be able to use the disc, pilot, and throw-out bearing, they said my best bet is to call their...

It doesn't do any good. One of the smaller companies that sell a sender, I called them to ask who makes it. The guy said they were made in house. When I asked if they were the correct non-linear, he said he's never heard of that, it's not a thing, and that I have no clue what I'm talking about...

Technically it can, but the gauge won't read correctly. Bend the arm so that when the tank is almost empty, the gauge indicates empty. It will just stay on full forever, and then start rapidly dropping once the level gets low enough to move the float. It's what I've done in the past so I knew if...

In the beginning post, I did state this was going in a 1974, so I figured that would carry through the whole conversation about the year range in question. That is what I have done in the past on other cars where I bought whatever was available as a replacement. I don't care about knowing where...

I've never seen this sender that you are showing as an original type. Only the one with the pivot in the middle. Even original ones I've removed are that middle pivot style. At least on the 74-76 models I've worked on. I would have to say it is. Using it in my daily with the factory gauge, it's...

I have an OD bellhousing in the shed, but it uses a ball stud to mount the fork. Which that is the only reason I didn't use that bellhousing; I don't have a fork for it.

Well, I do have a spare flywheel, so that isn't a problem. But I don't know about shimming the fork pivot. I don't remember what it looks like exactly, but the fork has a piece of spring steel on it that snaps into a pedestal in the bellhousing. I don't remember if this pedestal is removable or...

If you're talking about the $1000-$1250 clutches they list on their website, it's gonna have to be a "no" for me. I'd spend a couple hundred on a pressure plate, but I can't drop that much all at once. There has to be a different option that works with the stock flywheel and a 10" disc.

Where can I get a different pressure plate? The 10" I took out had stress fractures around every mounting bolt and was broken in some parts after only 3000 miles of abuse. I do beat it like it owes me money and sometimes do turn it up to and over 5000rpm. If I'm resting my foot on the pedal, it...

It's enjoyable on the highway. 80mph is about 2600rpm and even down low, it pulls OD quite well.

I believe that's what mine is as well. With the 3.55 gear and the 26.85" tall tire, it makes for great performance and great highway driving. I'm now just over a week into driving this to work and one four hour round trip, and it is all around fantastic. Being I need to replace my SureGrip...

They can still be found relatively cheap if you search hard enough. Might still find a fox body or sn95 Mustang in the junkyard with one. Although my engine is not stock, I have been loving this conversion behind the slant in my car.

That is what killed the 700R4 in one of my S10s. .7 Overdrive, 3.08 gears with a 26" tall tire. I couldn't drive around town in OD. Would barely tip in just to accelerate and it would shift out of it; sometimes down to 2nd if I leaned in too far. Only turned 2000rpm to do 70mph. Wore itself out...

A 3.91 or 4.10 would be good and still deliver decent highway rpm with the A833. With a 27" tall tire and a 3.91 gear, you would be almost 2600rpm at 75mph; about 2700 with a 4.10 with the A833 overdrive. With my slightly smaller tire (26.85") and the slightly better .68 overdrive, I turn almost...

The main reason is I couldn't find one at a reasonable price, and for what my engine is and how I drive, the gearing in the A833 is subpar at best. The other thing is, with the T5, I have four gears to have fun in vs. only three. And then highway cruising on top of that. I've never dyno'd it...

Continued.....

Hello! Was not entirely sure where to put this, could've gone either here or under the slant six section, but being primarily related to the trans, this felt appropriate. If not, I apologize. So, I (at least at this moment) have a 1974 Dart Sport as my daily driver. I had built the slant in it...

I was afraid of that. I plan to also T5 swap the car eventually and really didn't want to have two driveshafts made. But if I must, I must. You wouldn't happen to know how much I have to shorten it, would you?

I have recently acquired an 8.25 rear end from a 1974 Swinger that I am planning on putting in my 1974 Dart Sport. My car is currently a three on tree A250 (I think) and a 7.25 rear end. My questions: do I need to change the driveshaft? Is the u-joint larger? If it's just a u-joint difference...

To my knowledge, Clifford only sells two intakes. One open plenum that you buy an adapter to fit your carburetor and a dual Weber intake. Both of which are water heated. At least, I would think the dual Weber intake is water heated. I know the other is.