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I adjusted the brake light switch so I could put a few miles on the car before totally wrapping all the wires. Just want to make sure it's going to be reliable before I make everything permanent. So, uh, yeah... What do ya'll think, a little too tight? :rolleyes: This happened on Friday...

I should also mention that 2 of those relays and 2 of those fuses you see in the relay box are for the headlights. I didn't document any of that because it has been documented on FABO many times, but the voltage improvement to the headlights is almost unbelievable. Before the relays, with...

That is so true. It has taken me so much longer than expected to get to this point, I might have gone a little crazy if it didn't work.

I got the car in a drivable state and took it for a shakedown run. Everything seemed OK, but the converter wouldn't lock up. I ran the codes doing the old key / key off method 3 times, then read the blinking check engine light. I got code 37, which is for "Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid CKT...

Hmm, that's a really good idea. I'll do that when I pull the valve cover to check for looseness in the rocker.

I've been busy with all kinds of other things so I haven't had a lot of time for this project. I'm also getting annoyed at how long this little project is taking to I have regressed into my normal habit of not documenting what I'm doing. Well, I replaced the bent pushrod. It was #3 exhaust...

Cleaning up the valve covers so I decided to re-adjust the rockers. Well look what I found... Anyone near Caledon, Ontario have a spare 5.2 / 5.9 / 3.9 pushrod lying around? I inspected everything else and it's all ok. Just one bent pushrod.

Ha ha, and it was way worse than that. I only decided to take a picture after it just kept coming out!

This is not a new picture, this is from when I did the engine swap back in 2021. Even after doing my best with a coat hanger and various brushes, I eventually ended up with some sediment in the coolant that I wasn't happy with. The engine never got hot on me, but no one likes a dirty cooling...

Did I mention the only reason I took out the cluster was to see if my tach would support 4 cylinder mode? (Because the Magnum computer send a 1/2 tach signal). Turns out it doesn't, so I'll splice into the coil wire. This opened up a huge can of worms... the old "while I'm in there I might as...

Here's how my cluster is wired. Definitely some non-standard wiring here: - External voltage regulator, instead of the one that would be in the fuel gauge. My fuel gauge was dead so I did a fuel gauge replacement a few years ago where I put the rallye face and pointer on a gauge from a 70s...

Here's today's good guy alert. The Magnum oil pressure sender uses the same resistance values as the old gauges, so I decided I would try get the factory oil pressure gauge working. I have a mechanical Autometer gauge, but I figured since the factory gauge is there and I already have a "T" on...

When I bench tested the cluster with the lights off in the garage I found some of the lighting was too bright. For starters, on the tach between the 2000 and 4000 rpm area the light was super bright. Probably just the angle of the LED strip or just too many lumens. When I looked at the back...

Here are the colours before mixing. They're a little more washed out than usual since my test was just on plain paper, but you can see they're not close to the tach. As usual, pictures don't capture the colours perfectly. The red looks way closer to the tach colour here, but it's really not...

I painted the volt meter gauge pointer to match my other pointers. Last time I had the cluster apart (when I fixed the fuel gauge) I painted them all as close to the correct colour as I could get. I used fluorescent model paint, which adds a bit of luminescence to them. Not like that...

Got it back in the cluster and doing some bench testing. Here I am at about 13.5 volts, with some dazzling LED strip lights! I have had green LEDs in the factory bulb location for years and they definitely help, but the gauges are still super hard to see with any ambient light (i.e. street...

I got the gauge together, now let's see how it works. Looks like straight up and down at 13.8 volts. It's a little weird that it's at the bottom of the centre mark when down 0.4 volts, and at the top of that mark when up 0.9 volts. I don't know why it's like that, but it doesn't really...

Trying to figure out where to drill the holes for the screws that held on the old voltmeter face and will hold on my ammeter face. Notice I had to grind a bit on the centre of the gauge cluster so the little counterweight at the bottom of the needle will clear. Also needed some more clearance...

Got both gauges down to pieces:

Yup, those posts are the right distance apart.

Scope creep is something that happens in my work where you start a project and things keep getting added to the project along the way. "While I'm in there, I might as well do the XXXX too..." I'm suffering from some serious scope creep right now. Ever since I did the EFI swap I had always run...

That would be the way to go, next time I'm at a yard. I like the connectors for the same reason!

I got the brake switch all wired in and tested. Still not sure about the connector for the brake lights, I might drop the $35 and buy it. Probably not. I also got all the wires run under the carpet towards the console. The blue wire you see is my shift indicator light, and the red one is...

I did look around for vintage Mopar brake switch options and found there wasn't much that was available for cruise control anymore, but I quickly stumbled across the GM option and didn't keep looking. I think that Dakota switch would work though! The G3 system makes a lot more sense, you can...

I decided to get rid of that plastic retainer and instead I sandwiched it between 2 nuts. I was pretty surprised to find those threads are standard and not metric. 1/2 - 20, in case anyone else is thinking about this solution.

I didn't really want to re-engineer the bracket, so I'm going to use this. GM brake switch from the 1990s. It has 2 terminals for the brakes, 2 for the cruise, and I think 2 for ABS. That's what is on the Dodge brake switches, and the switching is the same: 1 normally closed for the brakes...

The brake switch took some time to figure out. I'm sure you guys are familiar with the standard A body switch and bracket: The more modern Chrysler brake switches tend to have a square mounting hole, like the one below.

Leaving one empty on this connector for now until I figure out the tach situation. It seems the Magnum PCM sends a signal with half the pulses my tach is expecting. I had a guy tell me he put his aftermarket tach into 4 cylinder mode and it worked, but I don't know if my tach has that option...

I'll be running all the extra wires through the hole that's for the manual washer pump. I got a big grommet to keep the wire insulation happy, and I'll be putting connectors on everything, as opposed to hardwiring, so I can pull it apart and easily put it back together if I have to. I bought...

Yeah, I think that was drawn a little incorrectly. I think it's just supposed to be a normally open momentary switch. I hope so, anyway.