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hot tanking helps, but it also needs to have all the passages scrubbed out with brushes before assembly. also could be dirty radiator, but who would rebuild the motor and not clean the radiator? :rolleyes:

okay...so could you not shorten the brackets when you make them, and reduce the gap?

would like to see pics of that

if you decide to go electric, do a search for ford contour fans

don't forget to insulate every where you can. under the carpet, behind the back seat, doors if possible. even under the headliner. also consider using heat reflective devises on the exhaust or on the bottom of the floor boards. once the sheet metal heat soaks it's a ***** getting it cool inside

take it to a shop or have a mobile A/C guy come to the car and evac it. they will "store" it for you, so when you have them do the re-fill, it should save you some $$. also make sure they will be able to add some R12, if that's what you still have, in case you need it topped off

got to use the right sealant

no bueno? what'd ya finally end up using?

Thermostat Housing Gasket - Silicone Gaskets - Real Gaskets Tennessee

no, it's cheep.

:lol: yup, start to wonder if the wrench is ever going to get there. i love those Real Gaskets, never going back

my opinion, your fine.

and to answer your question, 210' is fine. only you can decide if you trust your gauge

did the same thing for my Vintage air install

just to close this up. i put about a 200 miles on this setup and it's warmer than i'd like, a steady 210' on the street and just idling (fine), on the freeway at 3200rpm, it gets to 220' (not fine) on a hot day. it does come back down in traffic though so i'm wondering if it's a little lean at...

have you measured everything? off hand i bet that's going to be pretty tight

that's the mid-point on my stock gauge measure the circumference of both and report back

good deal.

nice. what controller are you using to run the fans?

so looking into the PWM thing a little more, i (finaly) found a good explination of how it works. 'So, the motor is being fed impulses of power. Imagine it the same way as if you were to turn the wheel with your hand. You can push the wheel every 5 seconds with the same amount of force, and...

ya, i do. but not for that reason... 70% humidity in the middle of summer? :realcrazy: Comparison of the Average Weather in Van Nuys and Linn - Weather Spark :lol:

ya, the all fans end up being variable speed thing bothers me too. the site isn't very well put together so a call would be in order to answer a lot of these questions. i don't know why you wouldn't set the fan "on" point just above what ever max temp your willing to see, so they have a chance...

by regularly i'll say a few days each summer. last sunday it hit 120.7 at my house, to which we say "welcome to Phoenix" :lol:

sometimes i wish these cooling threads were divided regionally. i don't know what part of california fsoria1315 is in but kansas, oregon and so-cal have different kinds of summer. i want mine to live, parked in traffic for an hour, with it 115' out. j par, i like the deflectors :thumbsup:

you need the shroud that fits the radiator size your using. looks like you went 26" in the other thread. no one is repoping the A-body 26" shroud. the B & C body ones don't have the same offset. easiest thing is by a used one. i got a very nice condition one on here last month. ask for lots of...

THE AUTO COOL GUY's web site is bad...he really needs someone to redo it and rewrite everything. his PWM controllers are interesting if that's the style of controller you want. HERE'S the instruction pages. setting the "ON" temp basically involves using a heat gun and setting the on temp...

uhh, what?

robert shaw

decided how you want to run them? on / off switch through relays, Dakota Digital (or equivalent) though relays, or PWM?

see if Champion will swap it for a 2 or 3 row. then you can get a =75']Contour fan setup in there