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Things are definitely strange in this trans, but its the one I got. My main goal is to use it as a learning experience and get the car back on the road while I plan my v8 swap. I think it will be fine for that purpose. Another can of worms I need to open is what kind of fluid is recommended...

I hear you. No way of knowing what happened before you. I would guess someone used the wrong thrust washers, did not have enough endplay, and then they tried over tightening the front band when the trans started to act up. But that's all just a guess. I've already got the valve body back...

I will take another look at the pump alignment. The valve body and governor were filthy when I removed them. I completely disassembled the valve body and governor, cleaned everything, and reassembled with transmission specific lubricant per the rebuild guide I am using. All valves and check...

Ok, thanks. And what about ensuring the pump bolt holes are aligned?

Thanks for the info. I do not think I have the Torrington bearing because the trans did have a metal thrust washer behind the sun gear shell when I took it all apart.

So how do you ensure that the bolt holes are centered on each other? Eyeball it while the pump halves are aligned with a clamp and then bolt the halves together? Basically how do you change out this thrust washer on the forward drum? It is free to slide around but is trapped between two parts...

Wouldn't I need to remove the forward drum from the input shaft if I want to replace the thrust washer on it? I aligned the pump hales by hand and eye, started all bolts by hand, then tightened the band around the halves before torquing to spec. It all looks aligned to me. I currently have the...

On that note, how do you disassemble the forward drum/input shaft? Do I just remove the lock ring on the input shaft and tap the shaft and forward drum apart?

The thrust washers and mating surfaces do not look destroyed from no lube/heat. They look a bit worn but nothing terminal looking to me. When I broke down the trans, there were chunks of frictions bands and grit from the frictions everywhere. Its possible the collapsed fluid line happened at...

I agree, something is not quite right still. I think I discovered something else. I took a closer look at all thrust washer thicknesses and compared them to the book: -pump washer is .072" (book says it should be .061-.063") BAD -forward drum washer is .071" (book says it should be...

Everything I can see about the rear bearing looks like it is correctly seated. For sure it is correctly seated on the shaft. Its snug against the shoulder on the shaft and the lock ring is secured in as shown in the pictures. I also gently tapped the shaft into the housing and it felt fully...

I only have the one thrust washer between the forward and direct drum. This is the washer we are talking about, correct? I definitely agree that the direct drum was not engaging fully with the sun gear shell in my previous assembly attempt. But it looks to me like its going together correctly...

I verified that the bearing was properly seated on the output shaft and that the recess for the bearing in the extension housing was clean. See pictures. I also took everything apart again and put the output shaft into the extension housing on its own making sure the bearing fully seated...

Results of more investigation: I did reassemble the pump with an alignment clamp. The rear band is loose enough to let the reverse drum move by hand. I can push it to the rear and feel it solidly bottom out against the inside of the case. I removed the speedometer gear and looked at the...

I will investigate these things and report back.

I took everything apart and took a picture at every step, let me know if anything looks wrong. Both rings and one thrust washer on back of pump. Rings are both locked and everything looks fine. Pump slides into direct drum smoothly. Thrust washer in forward drum. View once forward drums...

This is what the guts look like with the following conditions: -no frictions or steels in either drum -no band on direct drum -no oring on pump -pump bolted in to torque spec (175in-lbs) -thrust washer greased in place between input and output shafts -fiber thrust washer greased in place on...

I'm pulling it all apart and will try assembling without clutches, band, and o-ring and will post pictures hopefully later today.

I've had to take it back apart because it does not look like the Input shaft/forward/direct drum assembly does not seem like it's seating properly Into the front planet shell as my pictures show. I think I'm getting all the frictions and steels to line up but it feels like the input shaft...

Im going to start taking it back apart this weekend and will report back.

I misunderstood what you were saying about the pump. I was talking about installing the complete pump and you are talking about bolting the halves together, my mistake. Are you saying the manufacturing tolerances on the pump halves bolt holes are loose enough so that when all the pump halves...

Fair enough, but at the same time, there is only one way to learn. Every bushing I replace is done a little better than the previous one.

I did grease the gears in place and slide the pump (without cover) onto the torque converter to ensure that the splines got aligned and centered. I then packed the pump gear cavity with grease before putting the halves together. I did not use a large adjustable clamp on the pump. I used 2 bolts...

Good point, I might give the rubbing/tapping methods a try. The edges are a but rough because my bushing driver always shifts a little bit when I drive a bushing and makes a little ridge on one side. Once its driven in I go back and "shave" off any ridges with a razor. I realize that that is...

That makes sense, I will report back.

That's pretty much what I figured. I will pull some stuff out and have a look. On the direct drum bushing, what can I try to open it up a little? high grit sandpaper and polishing compound?

Yes, but I dont have another forward clutch lower pressure plate, so I just used 3 frictions in the drum.

I have almost everything back together, its very exciting but I am worried about a couple things: I slid the direct drum on the pump in order to do an air pressure check of the clutch as recommended in the book: The pressure test worked and the piston compressed the clutch stack but the...

This is what the ring surface in my direct drum looks like: There are shiny wear bands but they do not have a perceivable lip that I can feel.

Thanks for the good info. I think I will try to find some replacement metal rings for my accumulator and go with the teflon rings if I cant find any. I am almost done with everything but the valve body. Getting into that this weekend hopefully.