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Not trying to hijack. I have the original if someone wants to buy it? No tap or bit (5/16 drill bit 3/8 tap) I paid like $500 something for it. If any ones interested send me a fair offer I might accept.

My biggest fear, I’m in the Bay Area Climate Police Headquarters. That’s why I bought this Road Runner. My fear is that all the cars I’ve ever dreamed of will get crushed.

Maybe someone else can chime in and let me know. if there is a dime size rust hole, and all the rust is cleaned out, can I use a mig welder to just slowly close it up, or do I need to put a piece of sheet metal?

I might have to become an overnight fabricator lol. I had the Duster restored by me, but not the body and paint. I’m giving it a shot on this one.

37 lol

I think the bigger concern is using the NuMetal epoxy instead of welding I. metal patches. It’s super solid, but I just want longevity, and if I decide to sell it I wouldn’t want to screw the next guy.

Yeah, my Duster has never seen the rain. Also, I’m in Silicon Valley, CA so we hardly see any humidity. I can say though, I wish I knew the things I know now when I had my Duster Restored. I plan on making a lot more changes when coming to the body prep.

Valid points on the rust. That’ll be a plan to make sure there’s none, but let’s say I take the lazy route and use the NuMetal, has anyone had any good results with it?

Question for my body veterans. I bought this car from a Mopar enthusiast who supposedly restore many Mopars. I’m Questioning one thing though, he used NuMetal epoxy puddy around the perimeter of the rear windshield to cover up rust some spots. The rust didn’t reach the roof, but on the channel...

Is this one legit? Is it a show, or just a picnic? Just bout a 68’ Road Runner on Sunday and would like to look at a few to get some ideas on my restoration.

I really don’t know, honestly. Maybe someone can chime in

I have a fuel tank for a 71 Duster (California). it’s in good shape, and I’d hate to throw it away if someone can use it. just the sending unit seal should be replaced. I have the straps too. I’m in the Bay Area, CA so local pick up only please

Price drop $400+shipping

Yea, I bought the Cometic MLS’s. Just have to wait now for parts. Should have me down to 8.8:1 when it’s all said and done.

I also bought the ic982 pistons, and plan on buying cometic.040 thickness gaskets

These are the ones that came with the kit TURBO + OIL DRAIN + FEED + INTERNAL WASTEGATE TURBOCHARGER INSTALL KIT T3/T4 SS | eBay

I was looking at those. And with a .050 head gasket, that would bring me closer to 9:1

It’s whatever the rings are in the kit. I think it’s ductile iron

So let’s say hypothetically, if my piston surpasses the deck by .010, I would need to put a head gasket thickness of .050 to match the .040 quench? And if that were the case, I’d still be closer to 10:5-1 cr than to 10:1 cr

Ya, I think changing the pistons is the way to go. If it means anything, I do have a 4-bolt main spaded

It is a street car, and I would like to occasionally visit to the track. NA, I never was satisfied on how quick it was. I was happy with the torque though. I think the fastest car I’ve driven was about 650-700hp range. Oh, I’d like to get low 10’s high 9’s which I know isn’t too realistic, but I...

I think changing the piston heads is another serious option. I’m curious though. Naturally aspirated, this engine dyno’ed at 506 hp and 531 ft lbs of torque. Decreasing the compression ratio to about 8.5-9:1 what kind of power loss am I sacrificing? My initial goal for this current project to...

I think you’re right. Now, Rmoore enlightened me about quench (something I knew nothing about, thanks to him I do now). I’d like to go above .090 do bring me closer to 9:5-1 cr, but don’t know if that will increase engine detonation

What about using the copper shim like Garret suggested with the permatorque sd's? .020 copper shim with .054 permatorque sd

Excuse my ignorance, but can you double gasket, let say the permatorque sd's?

Ah man. Good catch. I did order the wrong ones. Back to square one lol

thats what I was concerned about, but I got the Titan version

I bit the bullet and bought the SCE Copper set. SCE Gaskets P690693R SCE Pro Copper Head Gaskets | Summit Racing Arp Studs and Nuts. Just to reiterate, the website says no o-ringing of the block or head, I should be okay then, correct?

I’m not too familiar with the spacers. Do you put one spacer on the deck, and place the head gasket (sd’s dry no spray) on top of that?

If that’s the case then I should go either 519sd or 540sd. If the 1008 seem to be the go to head gasket for boost (reading a lot of other forums) then getting on of the permatorqe’s that are thicker is just wiser.