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I was required to run a “race” tire on drag week. It was the only 14” that would work.

In competition I have to run this tire. Testing I run the M&H

In competition F70-14 redline lines, last week testing was a 14” M&H DOT Musclecar tire. My limited converter flash, (3500) doesn’t let me use all the M&H tires ability. Which works out just fine for me. More apples to apples, just more repeatable.

Last weekend it ran a 11.24 at 119 with a 1.60 60’, but was with a M&H DOT race tire, not the required F70-14 redline So it doesn’t count, but the M&H DOT tire doesn’t make the car quicker. Just easier to drive. I believe a high 11 teen is possible with a redline tire. Replacing the radiator...

My wide lobe separation helps with the exhaust manifolds.

Summit has a nice calculator when you look a pistons. You need to know Bore Stroke Dome CC’d + or - zero deck? Chamber cc’s

I’m running PAC 1903’s at 1.80 on this cam. Pulls through 7000 rpm 135 on the seat 340 over the nose

318’s are kinda their own special animal that a number of people have “been there, done that” on what the low hanging fruit would be. I personally would put exhaust manifolds down the list some. This just comes from my personal experience running 340 manifolds. Not the same animal, but under...

Honestly, it’s just a number. In a well sorted car 500 hp will easily get you into roll bar territory. Not sure of your end goal.

According to a calculator 434 hp at the rear tire, but that seems a bit high to me.

The Eagle is fine for what it’s intended use is, but it is pretty easy to make enough power to get it out of its comfort zone. Also it is such a catastrophic event when they break.

I’m running 118-119 mph at 3300 lbs.

If that is an Eagle cast crank I would change it. I would do nothing to make more power with that crank. I wouldn’t hesitate to go with Molnar. In fact, they are on my very short list.

List everything you know about the combo. I have mine in a note on the phone. I just copy and paste when asked. I have a “somewhat” similar cam. You have more intake and exhaust flow than I do, but I have more head flow,CI,and compression and mine is like the DEVIL! “Come on, it’s only a couple...

Fuel pressure?

Eagle cast crank? I would definitely change it. Forged, I see no reason. Currently running Scat cast crank, shifting at 6500 crossing the stripe at 6800-7000, but a clock is ticking. I know practically nothing in regards to cams. I would call a reputable company and tell them what you have and...

I don’t see a reason to change the rotating assembly. It’s forged, unless you are going to a light weight rotating assembly, crank and rods are all about survivability. What compression?

The “Eddy take off springs” are pretty marginal for the lift Eddy advertised. So keep that in mind if you go with the heads with those springs.

In regards to collecting data. I’m currently logging AFR,engine rpm,throttle position, drive shaft rpm and g force for a total investment of $700-$800. Not your Racepak plug and play sensors,but not real hard to do.

The most dangerous thing is someone with a little information who makes incorrect assumptions from that information. I regret this already, but answer me one simple question. How does the presence of lead in race fuel not change the appearance of the plug compared to an unleaded pump gas? You...

There’ s a bunch of fuzzy thinking here. You believe that the fuel distribution throughout the cylinder at time of ignition is vastly different? “Try a lower octane” octane is burn rate. What is burn rate going to do for AFR. I’m trying man, but I can’t remember anyone saying the color of plugs...

A punch list on the windshield or steering wheel is best. You get in look forward and go “damn!!!” Get back out and do whatever is on the note.

Not sure they make one for 318, but I run the rubber one piece gasket for my 360. I made little wooden half circle blocks for ends and screwed them to plywood with blue masking tape on it. Then I RTV the gasket to the pan and put weights on the bottom of the pan to compress it a bit. Then I let...

Roll master, timing set is a thing I always get the best possible and consider it a maintenance item. However, have not had to replace my roll master since installing it. Been in there 2-3 times.

probably not at your power level, a big assumption on my part, but I’m somewhat familiar with that air cleaner and know someone running low 10’s with it and with a slightly taller filter. Which creates about 1/2-1” gap between the lid and housing. That housing is about $700+ to buy. I’m suppose...

Don’t run it the way you “fixed” it. That is going to vibrate out and it will probably suck air in and you will lose oil pressure. The no screwing around right way is a new cap and line hone. Which requires engine removal. Are there fixes that could work? Yes. On an inexpensive motor, I kinda...

Why not just snug it and put a big note on the windshield “remember to torque the crank bolt” then use your very nice tool. You running the motor out of the car first? Oh no lock washer.

Your plug shows to much timing or to hot of a heat range. There should be a slight change in color right around the bend. This is a rule of thumb. I would not change anything without knowing what you are doing with it. Race, you just back off the timing and start making runs. Keep adding 2...

That’s just silly, what changes the color of the threads? Throw the plug in the ocean and take a peek at it a mile down. No change, plenty of pressure, no heat.

Thread color does not indicate cylinder pressure. It gives you an idea if your plug heat range is close. 3-4 darker threads and you’re in the ball park. Not a concrete indicator.