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I have a small block flat hydraulic tappet cam with 920971 stamped on it. I've checked all the major cam companies and couldn't find a match. Anybody have idea what cam it could be. Thanks

I have a small block flat hydraulic tappet cam with 920971 stamped on it. I've checked all the major cam companies and couldn't find a match. Anybody have idea what cam it could be. Thanks

I have a small block flat hydraulic tappet cam with the number 920971 stamped on the end. I've looked at all the major cam company's and can't find a match. Any help appreciated.

I think you got it that makes since. Thanks

No its not purple but the MP would lead me to believe it is a mopar parts cam.

I have a cam that is stamped on the end MP with numbers. I can't make out the first number. I believe it is either the letter S or the number 8 or 5 or 3. I have a picture. I've measured the lobes and the intakes are around .300" and the exhaust around .310".

I lengthened the accelerator rod and that fixed the stumble. It runs great. Thanks to all for the help.

Yes but I'll check it again. Can a timing light get out of calibration?

When I snap it, it appears there is no delay. The stream is continuous and smooth. It last all the way to wide open throttle

It looks like there is a slight, hard to detect delay between throttle movement and the start of the gas stream.

Thats it, being in a chevy body is making it sick...LOL

I need help. I have a LA 360 that came with roller cam from the factory. I put a Hughes engines Whiplash roller in it. I also put on magnum heads with a airgap intake. I have a Edlebrock 750 on it with stock Chrysler electronic ignition. When I'm at a dead stop and floor it, it stumbles very bad...

I have a newly rebuilt 360 in a 73 duster. Back in early summer I noticed the oil was getting water. The water level in the radiator may have gone down a little but not much. I suspected the timing cover gasket. I changed it and drove it regularly in the summer. The oil looked good all summer...

I checked it out thoroughly and found the lower control arm bushings were shot. As well as the strut rod bushings and the strut rods were bent. On the drivers side the hole where the lower control arm shaft goes through the k frame is wallowed out.

I have a 73 duster. The hole on the k frame for the lower control arm shaft is wallowed out. How do I go about repairing this?

If the pivot hole is cracked, do you have to take the control arm off to fix it?

yes

My 74 duster has a bad handling problem. When I'm going down the road the car could be handling normally then suddenly it will take off to left or right with out warning. Once it does this, it will be a handful till you get where you're going. I can barely move the steering wheel and the tires...

67dart273, I followed what you outlined and found some bad wires and connections. The ground on the ecu wasn't good too. I cut out the bad wire fixed the connection and ran a groung wire to the ecu. The main problem was virtually no voltage at the coil side of the of the ballast resistor when...

I'll check the ground. I feel the ecu is bad but checked good at the autozone. I hope that 2 car can get it done at homestead.

How much voltage should there be at the coil? Does the black and yellow wire on the negative side have voltage or just the brown positive wire? Would a ground wire straight from the battery to the ecu case work?

I have a 74 duster 360. After a long battle of electrical problems I had it running good except for a high rpm miss. The electrical problems were in the wiring. A lot of the wires were brittle. It used to miss real bad at much lower rpm and alot time it wouldn't fire until I went under the hood...

Thank you all for your input. Lots of knowledgeable people here.

Changed the rear clutches and steels. They were burnt up. Also replaced the front band. Put it together installed it and shifts and runs great.

I did try a new distributor. Most recently I've replaced the ignition switch. That didn't fix it. I found that it sometimes won't fire when it's turning over till you let off the ignition switch. I've also replaced' the ballast resistor.

It's popping and crackeling, more than one cylinder. It only gets better when the rpm's come down.

Different carb. Could a voltage regulator cause this?

I have a 74 duster that had a 318 with a street dominantor intake, edlebrock carb and headers. It had a misfire that started around 3000 rpm. I replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires, valve springs, ignition box and carburetor. It still had the misfire. I replace the worn 318...

Thanks for the help. I'm going to pull it out and check the clutches. I'll let ya'll know what I find.

Yes it was hooked up but it wasn't when I first got the car.