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Try shorter pedal strokes and slower pedal returns. Heck, even try gravity bleeding.

Usually when the housing breaks it’s because of an out of balance driveshaft. Too long and they jam the trans internals together causing end play clearances to go away and smashing parts together.

Had a brand new one built and it was about the same.

Hm.

I know it sucks to wait, but it is always best to measure once the trans is in.

“Whaaaat?,,,,,,,,,No way” :D

That’s exactly what I wanted to avoid, so I did something about it before it happened. I saw somewhere the guy put a plastic 90 on the back of the unit and ran the drain farther over. Unfortunately I already drilled the drain hole before that. It works fine the way it is now.

Yes, it’s normal. What I didn’t care for was the condensation drain dumping right onto my hedders. I extended the drain tube with 3/8 vacuum tubing and ran it down next to the frame rail.

Missing or broken return spring on the TP lever will cause varying degrees of late shifts at light throttle.

What I would do is start disconnecting linkage parts until I found what was holding it open. If I didn’t find it doing that I would make sure the throttle plates inside the carb were centered when closed.

Personally I’d like to see some with a larger flat added to the curved area.

I see frequently someone mention that a motor smokes on startup, and everyone jumps right to bad rings or valve stem seals. Neither may actually be the case and I will tell you why. For one, a cylinder/s that misfire suck oil up through the rings and dump that oil right into an exhaust system...

Fortunately the 325 went away, but I still have a R1200gs here. I wish it would go away too. Takes a special tool just to add oil to it.

We had a 325i convertible that I wanted to swap a small block with a 5 speed into, with side pipes, roll bar, flared fenders and big ol wide tires and a blower sticking out of the hood. Wife wouldn’t let me dangit.

Gotta take this off, so I can remove that, and be able to fix something that is actually the problem. That and it seems like every fastener takes a different tool. Good machines if you don’t have to work on em.

Don’t know if it will help you any, but maybe a bicycle brake cable would give you something to work with.

I personally don’t have a problem with China, or any other country manufacturing and selling products in the United States, as long as they don’t identify as the original manufacturer. Look at Engine Quest for example selling Magnum heads. They are very close to the original Magnum head, but...

We only had black and white the first time I saw it. No tights, I promise.

Not TTI, but I put Hedman long tube hedders on my 5.9 in less than a day by myself on the ground with a floor jack and jackstands. 2 days for hedders they better be working on it between other jobs.

It’s not so much smart as been doing this stuff since the Wizard of Oz was in black and white. :D

One of the shops I was lead at had a hanging air hose let go during the night, and since it was hanging between two cars on lifts it beat the crap outta both cars doors. (and I mean down to bare steel) Looked like they both got shot with a giant shotgun. Fuses are fine, and good safety...

Did you try pressing the stud up into it’s socket, then tighten it. Its actually common for them to turn if there is no resistance on the stud. It doesn’t necessarily mean the joint is bad. Heck, I have used a jack to put pressure on the studs before so the stud wouldn’t turn with the nut.

This is a 65 Dart Charger with approximately 700k on it. Belongs to one of our local Mopar group. 273 four speed. He has 2 273’s and keeps one built and ready for when he needs it.

I like how the tie rod caps worked out. We used them on the Wife’s 72 Dart and they fit nice and tight.

I had thermostat controlled electric cooling, but I was getting ready to add AC so I pulled it all and went with a more capable radiator and clutched 7 blade steel fan. Originally these cars had a basic circuit breaker built into the headlight switch, but they are a bi metal type and works...

Generally you’re suspension isn’t going to travel enough to expose the joint, but you are correct that there is no retainer on polys. The tie rod dust boots are the same.

A spray bottle and heat gun works too.

Ha ha, not looking for famous or YouTube money either one. Just hoping to give someone thinking of doing the job a heads up on what they might be getting themselves into. But thanks for checking it out. I wouldn’t mind a subscription if you feel inclined. Mopars4us on YouTube. I have a fuse...

Nope, I was warned just like you have been. :)