Search results for query: *

Subscribed. I knew I gapped my rings for a turbo for a reason.

I had my 904 done at Bonds Transmissions in Edmonton - complete rebuild with shift kit installed and custom torque convertor and red eagle racing rebuild kit. Was $1300 all in. I believe they are now caller Brad's Transmission Service and they are located in Sherwood Park: 37-52331 Range Road...

Small Block.

Deal fell through on a set of valve covers so moving this back up. Thanks!

Cast aluminum - should have been more specific.

Looking for a set of mopar performance valve covers and a mopar performance air cleaner. If you have a set in good shape then let me know. If you have a set that isn't in the best of shape I could be intrigued as a winter project to fix them up. Thanks, Bryan.

Got mine direct from Hotchkis.

Sounds good. Thank you sir!

Your chrome one looks perfect - I am hoping to find a paintable one, but will keep yours in the back of my mind. Thanks, Bryan.

Thanks DFX - I have also found out the hard way that the one I need is the rarer version. It is the early run production gas cap that I need. The build date of my car is 10/21/1970. Bryan.

Looking for a gas cap in good condition for a 1971 Plymouth duster. These have the shorter "neck" on them. Thanks, Bryan.

So problem solved - it was a faulty headlight switch. Figured it out by testing the resistance of the tan wire at the switch to the orange "instrument light" wire - they were connected. Then I tested the resistance across the switch from the power to the tan wire post - nothing. Resistance...

Yeah - I've got the service manuals and the "simplified" wiring diagrams - sometimes they are just difficult to follow. If the light green is solely the turn signal, then why does it get power when the headlights come on? Also, with no gauges connected turning the headlights on "freezes"...

Ok - here goes. 1971 Plymouth duster. I was wiring in my after market gauges last night by splicing into the original instrument cluster harness. The light green wire was the only wire which got power from switching the headlight switch on - so I thought great - this is for my dash...

I did finally track some down at Jim's Auto parts, but luckily another member messaged me and I got a couple of used ones off of him for a fraction of the cost at Jim's. http://www.jimsautoparts.com/electric.htm#door jam light switch Bryan.

Used ones would be fine with me if anyone has any. They clean up pretty easily. Bryan.

Hi there, I am looking for a two prong door jamb light switch with the 1/2" thread diameter (9/16" bolt head). I have four with the 3/8" thread but cannot seem to get my hands on the proper 1/2" threaded ones. Thanks, Bryan.

Thanks guys, Got one form another member. Should receive it in the next day or two. Great response! All the help and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Bryan.

Hey all, I am in need of a drivers side door jamb light switch with wiring for a 1971 duster. Any help would be awesome! Thanks, Bryan.

pm replied to

Thanks guys. I guess I will go with a 37 tooth gear. Now to find one - Brewers was out of stock and Cudacox has a bunch - but no 37 tooth one in his add. Bryan.

Hey guys, After some good advice on which is the correct gear for my application, I am looking for a 37 tooth speedometer gear part number 2538937 for my '71 duster. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bryan.

Hey guys, Just trying to get some thoughts on what is the correct speedometer gear for my setup. Rear axle ratio: 4.10 Tire size: 275/70R14 which works out to a diameter of right around 29". It seems I fall right between a 2538939(Green) and a 2538936(Red). Is it better to step up or...

How did you lock your hood?

Yep - my bad. I meant ammeter. Figured it would take a pretty big switch. Ruled that out anyways all ready due to the inconvenience, it only came to mind as when I was first trying to fire up the car I had to have the ammeter connected or nothing got any power.

Same goes for fumbling under the dash or under the hood. Been doing some research this morning and might go with a passive RFID type switch. Wiring the ohm meter wires effectively turns off all power so the radio will have to be reset every time and that is a pain.

what about wiring something through the MSD 6al ignition box? I have heard you can ground the "white" wire. Anyone done this through a switch?

not running an electronic fuel pump - cool idea though.

Planning on doing something to slow down the average car thief given how easy it is to hotwire these old cars. What I am thinking is running the heavy gauge wires which run to the ohm meter through the "rear air" toggle switch. Does anyone know the rating of the factory switch for a 1971...

Hey Mark, figured you might be on this site. Six years ago when I bought it from you it was a different beast for sure. It has been a long ride getting the Duster tore down and rebuilt. Wound up being a pretty solid car to start with which was nice - and surprising given its west coast...