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1971 slant six block, a-904 trans. i rebuilt the head a couple years ago -- installed new valves; lapped the valves; set the valve lash while motor running per service manual; installed new pushrods; disassembled, cleaned and reassembled the rocker assembly; new distributor cap and rotor. 7.25...

currently running a carter 2 bbl setup on a 1971 slant six and 904 trans setup in my 65 valiant. i've noticed that acceleration is always a bit slow (granted, it's better with the 2 bbl setup vs the stock 1 bbl), especially when accelerating from a stop or traveling on a slight incline. i'm...

Some weird numbers today. Granted it wasn't after the haul home but after I had stopped and grabbed dinner. 12.37v at rest 12.86v at high idle (it wouldn't go any higher than this) 10.89v ungrounded at high idle 2.2mv grounded at high idle do you think the numbers are this way because i let...

No, thank you! And all I had to do was hook up that wire lol... ugh Well no celebration yet. Time will tell, I'll be watching this like a hawk over the next week or so.

Wasn't able to get any readings on the way to work, so I took them after I made the drive home: Power off: 12.5v High idle: 13.9v Ungrounded tab on high idle (green): 1.3v Grounded tab on high idle (blue): 2.3mv numbers seem better after a real drive, rather than just running the car for 15...

After full charge: 12.8v After sitting before install: 12.5v After fast idle: 14.3v Ungrounded tab at normal idle: 10.5v Grounded tab at normal idle: 2.2mV Ran the car for about 15 min in total. The auto store claims the battery is still good. Had it checked a couple days ago. Unfortunately...

Grounded the 2nd field tab to the alternator case as suggested. Starting with 12.15v on the battery with power off, At fast idle, voltage read 12.95v. Put my voltmeter to the green field tab at normal idle, i'm getting 10.25v, which seems high... Since there's two field tabs maybe i have...

so if i change the regulator, i shoudn't ground the 2nd field tab? just leave it without a connection? or did you mean: if the regulator is bad, keeping the 2nd field tab grounded will drain the battery; if it's good, then keeping the 2nd tab grounded is ok

This is the style I'm currently using... Voltage Regulator: Ballast Resistor: I know I haven't changed either of these, so that means I'm sending the 2nd field tab to ground, correct? Can I ground it to the block?

Hi, I've had to charge my battery twice in about 3 weeks. At full charge it's about 12.42v, and at idle it seems to be dropping to 12.10. It's been a day since I charged it and already the current voltage is 12.10, 12.00 or less at idle. When I increase the throttle, voltage increases, but...

it's a 1965 plymouth valiant, 225. and i believe it's a pump manufactured by carter for napa. model M60577. label says made in the USA, but these days that usually means assembled by some dude in the USA with parts made in China and god knows where else.

also i took off the cap and blew into the line. sure enough, the fuel blew right past the fuel pump and back down the line. it wasn't even super hard to blow either.

i asked my friend this same question, but wondering if it would be prudent to add check valves into the line itself? that way if the valves fail on the pump, i'll at least have a backup (you know the quality of auto parts these days). say, one before the pump, one after. or is that overkill?

oh yeah, i did remove the gas cap. same result. a little slower, but it still sucked the gas right out of the bottle. what's the theory behind that?

actually i'm wondering if there might be multiple issues. clog at the sock in the tank as well as a bad check valve.

i cranked the motor and got the fuel to pump into a bottle. but, when i let off the ignition, the rubber hose sucked the fuel back down the line towards the pump. pretty quickly too, i might add. i rechecked the connections at the fuel pump. additionally, i checked along the hard line aft of...

some background info: slant 6, carter bbd carb recently changed fuel pump (diaphragm was broken on old unit and leaking fuel into the motor). changed out flex line between hard line and pump. also changed the oil (it was thinned out with fuel). recently cleaned carb, and when putting back the...

I should add that while I'm testing it and the engine is warm I can do idle and throttle with no problems. But once the motor cools down and sits, say, overnight, the moment I start it in the morning it starts having a really rough idle and then shakes more than usual. This morning startup was a...

you know what, i have been smelling oil. and the car was shuddering really bad on the way home today — no doubt i bent more rods. last night after i made my adjustments the valves were working nice and smooth, idle was good, power was really good.

my mechanic friend suggested cleaning out the oil by replacing it with transmission fluid as a way to flush the crud out. and then putting fresh new oil inside. man i'm totally stumped. i've bent 3 push rods that i know of, the car was fine last night, adjusted the valves while hot, drove it to...

^^thats sexxxy lol so today, I pulled the valve cover to check my rods after the test drive yesterday... rod had fallen out of cylinder 2 exhaust, and one of the new rods i put in yesterday was bent slightly. not sure why the new one bent, perhaps it was not seated properly at the bottom. and...

If by valve adjustment, you mean using the feeler gauges to set the correct distance between the rocker arm and the valve stem, I set the exhaust to 0.020 and the intake to 0.010 after running the car for 10 min and warming up the block. I took it on a test run today around town. A little bit...

Here's a pic I drew of how we got the valve unstuck...

UPDATE So my friend stopped by after his clutch job and we worked on it together. I moved the fan belt back and forth to free up the stuck valve while he held the rocker on the push rod. The valve was still stuck and we talked about various options like pulling the intake to shoot penetrating...

So I put one of the rods in, but the other won't stay in. It looks like the valve is sticky (probably caused by old oil, old gas, sitting still for 5 years, or a combination of all) and goes into the open position ok but is slow to close (come up). As a result, when the cam brings the push rod...

Yeah my friend said that port only has a vacuum as RPM increases. Well, makes sense, since I read last night that the vacuum advance was to compensate for changes in load on the motor. I guess I didn't put two and two together. And yeah, I capped off anything that wasn't being used. Anyway...

Ah yeah the tank will have to be dealt with eventually. I want to get a new tank anyway. The old one is a little beat up from bottoming out on too many driveways. I think for now this fix will get me going but this is a work in progress so when I have time I'll drop the tank. My friend used a...

My mechanic friend came over to help me diagnose. When we pulled plugs 4 and 5 and the plug cylinders I noticed there was a rod sticking out. My friend feeled on the inside, we pulled the valve cover, and realized the reason why 4 and 5 are not firing is because I have two bent pushrods. So...

the motor mounts are still pretty new. i did check those, as that seems to be the number 1 reason why a motor will shake. i looked at the mounts while the motor was on, and there didn't seem to be much vibration at the mounts. i cleaned the rotor cap. so i did the smell test. gas smells like...

it's coming from the engine compartment. the motor doesn't smooth out when driving. i notice a little bit lack of power. the noise / vibration is the worst in reverse and drive. it smooths out in park and neutral. i will smell check the gas. a buddy of mine that's a mechanic also suggested...