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We got car out this spring, removed m/c from booster, jacked both front wheels off ground on stands and started car. Within fifteen minutes the front wheels started to get hard to turn without ever touching the brake pedal with car idling. Eventually wheels would not turn by hand. This led me to...

Problem resolved! Moved distribution block up beside master cylinder using bracket from s10 and no more lock up. Problem was heat soak from exhaust heating block and expanding fluid. Thanks to all who made suggestions and provided ideas if things to check.

We will try jacking it up and taking m/c nuts off booster, letting it hang and letting it idle and try to rotate wheels. Will at least eliminate m/c system components from the equation. Thanks for the suggestions alldodge426

Didn't touch brake system until problem arose and changed front hoses as it was suggested that they were collapsing. Bleed system until pedal was firm and had car on stands and rotated wheels by hand and applied the brakes to see when brakes would begin to engage.

Sounds good, we will try that. Will have to wait until ground dries up or freezes to get to car to do that. Just don't get why it happened after engine swap and now before.

Checked hardline-no kinks

When this happens both front wheels lock and loosening bleeders releases brakes. I understand about pushrods adjustment, however, why did this problem occur when we did the V8 conversion. We didn't do anything to the braking system until we experienced this problem. That's when we started...

Got tired of messing with it last summer and put it away. Spring is around the corner and it will become a priority soon so any suggestions/experiences are appreciated.

We have changed front hoses, bled system(probably enough to have flushed old fluid out) unhooked booster vacuum to remove it from equation, I fabricated an 18 qauge heat shied fashioned from photos of factory shields to reflect heat from master, I adjusted drums in case they were adjusted to...

Brakes have been bled and master is a rebuilt unit. Nothing in brake system has been changed since car was driven with /6 setup. My son has driven this car to the Dreamcruise (5 hours from our house) 4 times last 6 years. It has been driven to the Tri-State Show in Penn 3 times as well as all...

I have been thinking that I may have to move prop valve into wheel well and run lines from there to get away from manifold and pipes. I have a factory 340 Duster here and comparing both, nothing is different.

We did that and condition remained. You don't even have to drive it, just start it and let it idle. I have owned a lot of Mopar and have never experienced this before. The car belongs to my son and I convinced him to use manifolds over headers to avoid heat soak and leaking issues and that seems...

Never thought of that but never had any issues before engine swap.

That is what I thought and I built a heat shield under master cylinder to reflect manifold heat and the brake lines are OE in the factory location? Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this and how they corrected it.

Just checking to see if anyone else has experienced this. Condition is after you start car and let sit and idle for 10 minutes the front brakes will lock on. Let car cool down and brakes will release. Car is a 71 Scamp with recently installed 360, with stock manifolds, power front drum brakes...

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How much shipped to 14304 NY?

How much to 14304 NY? Do you accept Postal Money Orders?

How much for the cast + gears shipped to 14304?

How much for charcoal canister shipped to 14304?

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any pictures yet?

Are you around tonight? If so could I come pick it up?

How much mailed to K9V 4R5 ON CA?

Will you ship to Canada? If so how much to K9V 4R5 Lindsay, ON

Where in upstate New York? I'm in Ontario and would pick up if close enough.