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You will need an 18" stick then. Pan number is irrelevant. Dipstick/tube length changed by option. A/C cars got a much longer stick/tube than a non-A/C car with the same engine/pan.

If it's a car pan the stick will be 9" longer than the tube.

IIRC, Rance is in the $5-6K range.

That's what we all think when we start building...........................

I'm #1 in the 12 second section. Duplicate my build at 2800# and you'll be in the mid 11's.

I did back to back to back tests at US 41 with my Duster when it was mostly stock with a Pep Boys replacment box, an orange box, and a chrome box. The chrome box slowed the car down 2 tenths. The Pep Boys stocker replacement was the fastest. I put the orange box back on my pig block...

GoDaddy trying to extort more money to pay Danica?

Going from hydraulic to mechanical is pretty easy. You will need the cam, lifters, pushrods, and rockers. Should just basically bolt together.

http://dansby.net/slant/Hyper%20Pak/Image2a.jpg

Call RAS and get a set of rebuilts. Last set I got were $85 and they didn't even want a core back.

The big problem with a roller is that there are no streetable blanks. No one has the machine to hob the drive gear. The few race blanks that were built/used were over $1K each, and used belt driven oil pumps and crank trigger ignitions. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the flat tappet...

Bill, you'll get the same info here as you did on .org, maybe less. There really is no need for a roller in a Slant. The problems you have to overcome far outweigh any advantages. With the small lifts and valve spring pressures on a Slant you should never have trouble with the dreaded...

On a 150 shot mine went from 14:50's to 12:0's. And no, they are not practically free.

Many have had them in the 350ish range N/A. Mike Jeffrey had one in his Valiant that the power/speed calculator put at 375. Above that and you cross the threshold into unreliability big time.

I've had running ones I couldn't give away if that tells you anything.

Have you bought anything recently? Their customer service flat out sucks. They only stock the really fast moving parts, the rest they take orders on and will charge your card even though they claim they won't. You will get your parts whenever they get enough orders to make a full run. Until...

You would be wrong. Jack's been dead for years. The guy running the place now will sell his mother if the price is right.

Trade for the HP intake, sell it, and buy an Offy. Much better intake for the street than either of your present choices.

Last new motor I put in the red car I fired, let idle for 20 minutes at 2000 to break the cam in, drove 6 blocks, and hit it with a 100 shot of nitrous to get everything friendly.

Use the pan and pickup from the Valiant motor.

Sounds like with some traction and tuning 15's will be a sure thing. You will need to keep upping your shift points. Short shifting a Slant really kills ET because they don't have enough grunt to recover the RPM loss. You may end up in the 56-5800 range or so. I shift my junk at 6500...

From the looks of your build 15's should be a cakewalk. I've seen Slant cars run mid 14's without a whole lot more than that.

That was a hot item a year or so ago. I believe it has been proven to be bogus.

All the MP cams are discontinued. If all you're looking for is something that sounds bad, watch E-Bay until you find the MP cam that the part number ends in 343. You won't find a cam that sounds badder than that.

I pulled a couple out of mine just because somebody told me I couldn't. Took an real steady hand but there was just barely enough room. It's definitely easier on an old drool tube head.

Drool tube heads run from '60-'74. The changeover may have been in the '74 model year. Reality is if you are going to rebuild one anyway there is negligible difference between the vintages. The only real drawback to the '75-'80 heads is that you can not pull the lifters out with the head on...

It's not too hard IF you have the correct brackets and linkage arms. Hardest part is making sure the cable routes away from the exhaust and does not kink.

Absolutely nothing has changed since you started this thread: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=77759

Yes, you can change the cam in the car, but it is a bigger pain in the butt than just pulling the motor and doing it right.

You can not make any kind of valid choice of camshaft until you decide what you are going to do with the rest of the drivetrain/engine. What compression, carb, intake, exhaust, port work, valve size, converter stall, rear gear, street, strip, multi-purpose. Just saying you need "X" camshaft...