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Because there is a big difference in measured wet flow on dyno vs dry flow ratings. Not to mention dyno and track testing shows improvement.

Not a dumb question at all. The cast steel (vs stock cast iron) will handle that just fine. I haven't used a Scat 4340 crank for this combo yet, but I bet it wouldn't need to have Mallory installed to balance like the cast crank did, even with the light bobweight this one had. So the added cost...

Scat cast crank and Pro Comp rods, Pistons are custom RaceTecs with -23cc dish @ -.002" deck height, 10.27 static. The Edelbrock heads needed the usual guides sized and valve job corrected, and decks cut as they were not flat and a 64 Ra, so I trimmed them flat and to a 24 Ra. Ports are as cast...

I'm sure Larry Meaux would be interested to hear how it's incorrect, not to mention all the professional builders that use it for reference. The problem with basing your whole cam selection on DCR is what I see as "squishy". I've seen more than a few threads talking about how people are...

I'd suggest not using that incorrect calculator on the KB site, that has really caused a lot of bad information on this site. Can anyone here tell me what RPM you use to figure DCR, and do you understand what DYNAMIC means, and why it's called DYNAMIC compression? I would suggest you buy...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1971042249#post1971042249

I know lots of guys fight with leaking valve covers, especially when switching over to cast aluminum covers. Also seen many threads about the corner tabs being cracked and broken on the Mopar Performance covers. Some of you guys know and many don't- the rocker rails on most Chrysler heads are...

Hi Robert, Let me check in with Tom on Monday and verify what it would cost and I will get back to you with pricing. Send me an email if you would please and I'll send the quote via email vs having to log in here. Email is pete@cpmotorworks.com or go to the website and you can send it to. Pete

I don't know how many different blocks you two have honed but I haven't seen a single domestic V8 block that doesnt move when you torque down head bolts with a plate. Small and big Chevy, Chryslers, Fords, Buicks, Olds, Pontiacs...they ALL move, some more than others. Even the aftermarket blocks...

What matters is if the bore is round when the heads are on. Finish is secondary. Rings can't seal to bores that arent round and if they "wear in"...you have other issues by then. The big Chrylsers move around quite a bit, if they don't have a plate to hone your block you might as well burn your...

X2 on Molnar, dealer for them myself. Tom was the engineer behind two other well known higher end mfg's.

Thanks Rob I've seen a few threads about valve covers not sealing or breaking ears off the corners of the BBM and the quality of the covers gets blamed. This is the real problem, the valve cover rails on the heads are never cast very flat and the covers snap when you tighten down the bolts...

I believe you :D The castings are never flat and some worse than others. Stamped covers can flex some and seal a little better. Cast or fab'd covers wont. For me it's a standard operation on SBM/BBM to mill the rocker rails flat so they don't leak like crazy. Only way to fix it...

This is the problem, the valve cover rails on SBM and BBM are almost never flat,they have a serious arch in them preventing them from ever sealing with a cast valve cover that doesnt flex like a stamped cover. I mill the rails flat and it takes care of the problem every time...

IMO shops that bore within .002" then hone are taking shortcuts. You have to leave enough material to use a series of stones, in order to leave the subsurface with the proper depth of cross hatch to hold the oil. AKA Rvk value. I see alot of blocks come in that have been shallow honed and the...

Some guys try to use a ball mic and subtract the bearing shell thickness from bore diameter. Doesn't make sense to me but... Check the bearing at 12 & 6, as they get wider at the parting line to account for stretch/rods pinching tighter at parting line.

All 8, along with some bowl work and SSR work. Machinist square, digital calipers, and radius gauge.

Some Indy 440 heads I just did. About 4-5 hours worth of work for me.

So your whole premise is based on who to blame when it fails. Ever wonder why the same 911 spring is used on cams from .420" lift to .525" lift? At the same 130 seat pressure? Because we've all seen the failed cams with the flat base circle..... So lets compare open pressures. 130lbs @...

Yes, I do have lots more to learn. The more I do this stuff, the more questions I have and the more I find I don't know. However, if you think 20lbs more on the seat/nose will wipe out a cam lobe, and that the numbers in the book or a spec'ed installed height is all that matters, I won't try...

Yes, I do. In fact I just had a customer come in for me to fix a bent valve and replace an exhaust seat from too little seat pressure. Spring surge can't control the valve, piston meet valve. Bent valve now beats the snot out of the valve seat. Try to explain this to a customer that thinks...

X2 Shim the high ones to 1.835" to match the shortest and run them.

Fuel A is primary side, fuel B secondary, add the two for total. BSFC is the number to look at- mid .400's is doing good.

What exactly are your trying to achieve? Is the spring in coil bind at max lift? If your just shooting for a spec installed height you may not need to do anything. Are you running .650" lift?

Start with a 795-16 retainer, then matching 10° locks for your stems (single, 2, 4 groove). Make sure you use a locator or machine the spring seat to locate the bottom of the spring properly. Beehives work great, I use them all the time. Dual springs just add mass and friction heat that isnt needed.

Its similar, I built this one the way I wanted it to work. Any block I do gets done with it. Rob, don't take everything as a personal contest. You gave good advice about having a machine shop do the actual measuring, other than the "they" will work for free. I do enough of that already..

Bigger isnt always better, the port has to have the correct size and shape for the CI and RPM. You can't correlate the first set of heads you ported with making you go slower. Its about the correct shape,size and combination, and that includes the cam, compression, etc. That's like claiming...

you need a 5/8 hex 3/4" reach gasketed plug is what your saying, not a copper plug? NGK V-Power such as R5671A-7, or FR4/ FR5 for a hotter street plug. Lower the -# is hotter in NGK.

Its not just a simple crank CL to deck- you also have to correct the crank/cam CL to deck angles- 45 from Crank/Cam CL and 90 to each other, along with parallel to the mains. It requires a special fixture or a CNC with indexer, not just a surfacing machine. You need a point of reference other...

Joe has been building engines for what...50 years? He's no idiot and the engine doesn't know what brand it is. Its still just bore x stroke and an induction and exhaust system. Very nice results Wazoo64-