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I've got 25.7" up front and 26.7" in the rear, great fit on my '68 (trimmed inside lips for extra clearance). Dr Diff's old 4x 13" Cobra discs all around.

No, I sold the Dart last summer - 16 years of memories with that beast!

Thought I had it in there, sorry! Fixed in the original post, also added here

UPDATE - they are Moser A-body axles with large bolt pattern (I dug out the receipt from when I purchased them 10 years ago). When I went to install them they wouldn't go in the last 1/4" or so, wound up pulling the center section to take out the spacer buttons.

Because they come with the Dr Diff kits....

IIRC (and I can check tonight), they were Moser large bolt A-body axles, green bearings, 741 case with sure-grip.

Yup, been there - done that.

For sale is a 1968 Plymouth Barracuda that has been restored and modified to be a great cruiser, with a 383 6-pack and 4spd. Currently registered and insured in CT, I have ownership paperwork going back to 1968 (originally a /6 auto). I purchased this vehicle in the fall of 2003 and began its...

PM sent... edit - typed PM while you were replying with budget, sorry.

For sale is a 1968 lower dash pad set in good condition for a driver, simply dye it to match your interior! As shown in the photos, this 3 piece set includes the lower left dash pad, the lower right dash pad, and the steering column cover. The mounting nuts for the dash pads are also included...

For sale is part 2770378, variable wiper switch, with knob and mounting nut. Knob has positive stop(clicks) and sweeps through the rheostat. $65 shipped in the 48 states, payment via PayPal. Located in Manchester CT As shown in photos

Are your fusebox connections clean? Have you checked the rheostat (headlight switch)? One leg of it sends power to the gauges via the orange wire on the connector(s) behind the instrument panel.

$35 for the pair, shipped via Priority Mail from Manchester CT. Payment via PayPal As shown, black!

Small block style, $40 each plus shipping from Manchester CT, payment via PayPal As shown, includes whatever mount parts and hoses are in the photos. The pump with the solid pulley has a slight dent in the bottom of the reservoir. Power Steering Pump #1 solid pulley Power Steering Pump...

For sale is a pair of dust shields for a 1973 and up A-body. Condition as shown. $35 via paypal, with USPS Priority shipping included from Manchester CT.

Do you have front running/signal lights? How is the connector at your steering column? The signal switch feeds the taillights as well as the signals IIRC.

Yes, the lights are now fully operational. Thank you!

Last week I replaced the worn out rear springs with new "factory height" 6 leaf springs but it looks like I'll have to either get lowering blocks or different front hangers as the back end is way too high now. The wheel gap has got to go! Before/After pics

$130 via PayPal, shipped

$135 via PayPal, shipped

$50 shipped

Sale pending

Shipping is included

As shown in photos, this includes the 4 hubcaps. These will be great for a driver! Hubcap in lower left has some dings/dents/scuffs around the center section, shown in photos. The rest are dent free but may have some small scuffs. $65 via paypal, shipped from Manchester CT

$55 shipped

$150 via PayPal

Thanks, I'll check the removable bulb mount, one of the legs might be bent. That bulb is tough to get to with the cluster in the dash! When I had the cluster out a few days ago I cleaned all the copper connections on the boards to ensure a good contact patch. Yes, I added several grounds from...

I'm an idiot and thought the dimmer switch operated clockwise to brighten the dash lights, while it operates counter-clockwise to increase illumination :BangHead: Dash lights work and dim properly, horn works (pressing on right side of horn ring) with improved grounds & cleaned contacts. Now...

Yes, I cleaned the sets of contacts in the steering wheel and on the horn ring when I had it apart for the turn signal cam replacement. Maybe adding a ground from the column to the body will help?

After getting out the dremel and forcing a better ground the horn now works a bit more reliably (but only when the ring is pressed to one side, I get nothing the other way). Tomorrow I'll crawl under the dash again and monkey around with the fuse box and a test light/vm.