Search results for query: *

after thinking about it i believe there is a taper above the shoulder so it couldnt happen anyway. Its been a while so nevermind

Probably not but if early a bodies have that thick washer under the nut of the pivot pin u didnt accidentally leave it on the shoulder and not under the nut? Maybe?

I guess these darn mopar speedos all go bad after only 50 yrs

I also got the scream of death the other day now speedo reads 20 sitting still. Got a 20 dollar gps speedometer that sticks on dash and projects speed on windshield. Problem solved

Thanks. Now i understand

This may be a stupid question but where can you buy the 73 76 brakes. Are the parts all available new (control arms, spindles etc) or just junkyards still have any usable parts?

Sounds and looks awesome

I knew it! I didn't think bending it just enough to clear would hurt anything but i decided to cut the pan

Good to know thanks

Thanks man. I was feeling all alone there for awhile. Now if i can just find those darn torque converter bolts maybe i can fire the thing up after 2 yrs of delays

I enjoy the challenge

50 yrd coming up next jan too thosedoobies are the only way she can stand me

great nickname

That maybe contributing to my problems because not only am i making a 440 dart im using a 46rh overdrive trans so there is no side to side clearance as far as trans is concerned. Also power steering aint helping but im pretty sure i got it licked now

Thanks

Apparently

good to know

i have schumacher tri y and their slant six mounts. it will have to remain a mystery. maybe its been wrecked or jumped or just made so sloppy it just doesnt quite fit like every body elses. i dont see any evidence of front collision tho. every thing seems to work now because i made it work...

well i got a new idler and there is no difference between the 2 so i went with cutting and enlarging the notch which was a pain but it works and i also put a 1/4 inch spacer under passenger side and 3/8 under driver side motor mount and now have headers installed, spark plugs back in (wow is...

Good idea. Also I was thinking of getting a new idler arm just to compare with mine to see if it might be bent.

And the centerlink clears fine its the idler arm/centerlink passenger side connection that slams into the side of the pan about an inch behind the "factory" notch. It looks like the motor needs to be moved back but ive got it as far back as she'll get

I have a repro 187 and after 68 the v8 and /6 used the same centelink from what ive seen on here

Where im pointing is where it hits the pan ive already removed pan and cutting it up

thanks for responding but i don't think that would work unless they are thinner on the ends.

also in middle of 1970 swinger slant 6 to 440 swap. having major problem with oil pan idler arm interference. first pan i bought that was supposed to work was a night mare of bfh clearancing and grinding of k frame lip just to get motor down in the hole. realized it was never going to let me...

also in middle of 1970 swinger slant 6 to 440 swap. having major problem with oil pan idler arm interference. first pan i bought that was supposed to work was a night mare of bfh clearancing and grinding of k frame lip just to get motor down in the hole. realized it was never going to let me...

there is a push on retainer on the outside hinge or pivot point under the plastic hinge cover that you have to pry off with a screwdriver or other suitable tool. you will probably break it but replacements are readily available at hardware stores. then the backs should just pull off pulling outward