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What you said is the key, you can have the fanciest, most fully decked out aftermarket suspension, but if the geometry isn't right, it's junk, everyone thinks "oh its a rack and pinion coilover suspension, it's the s**t!" There's so much more to it.

A manual rack is 16 lbs, a power rack is 22 lbs.

Contact AGR Performance, they build pumps, made in the USA,they can build to whatever specs are needed, they build a lot of pumps for my customers that have the same issues, most rebuilt pumps are remanufactured in China,and are absolutely junk,and they are awesome to work with.

There aren't any that I'm aware of, I use those spindles a lot on our setups, also,I hope you got 2" dropped spindles, if you didn't, you're going to have to, the caliper bracket hits the lower control arm on a standard spindle. More than likely you're going to have to have them made, make sure...

My guess is you have an early RMS suspension, they were indeed much wider, 1 1/2" I do believe, this was done to accommodate air ride, which put the hub to hub measurement at 61" if you contact rms, you can send your a-arms to them, and their shorten them up for you, and you'll end up with a hub...

If your headers hit the rack, how is it going to clear your factory k frame, and steering box? What your saying makes no sense, I've never seen a header tube even remotely that far forward, and that low, let's see a picture of this setup.

Yes Joe, unfortunately a stock gas tank is pretty much vetoed, there just simply isn't room,on most A bodies, I've tried several designs to get it to fit, the strange thing is, and I have no explanation for, I have a 71 dart, and 71 duster, on the duster, there's almost 3 more inches between the...

Just curious, but are you concerned about where the rack sits or where the actual tie rod passes through, the reason I ask is because the rack can be mounted right to the frame, or you can put different spacers in to move the rack back, I prefer it to be back as far as possible, to keep the tie...

Crankshaft center line is offset 1.25 inches to the passenger side, and 5.25 above the k frame to the center of the crank.

There not as low as you think, if they were much higher, they would hit the oil filter, and he does have a milodon pan, but on a stock small block pan, it sits just about 1/4 lower, I would rather hit the frame than rip my oil pan up, but like anything else, it's just ones opinion.

Just to clear things up, because I know someone will see this and scratch their head, there was apparently some miscommunication between myself, and the people who do my website, PLEASE NOTE: suspension travel at 58.5" hub to hub is 6.5" with a 61" hub to hub, it's close to 7" of suspension...

Please don't take this wrong, Ackerman has absolutely nothing to do with bumpsteer,Ackerman is the relation between the location of the outer tie rod end in relation to the lower ball joint,also they only time you would have Ackerman problems, is when you don't use the correct spindle, if you...

To answer your wondering, it all has to do with load rating and load angles, because the Mustang 2 spindle has a greater pin inclination than a mopar, it forces the upper control arm to be shorter,(upper ball joint closer to the frame) therefore moving the top of the coil over in at a greater...

I'm still around, I just rarely get on here, but you can always pm me if you have any questions. Thanks, Carl

Hi there, to answer a couple of your questions, yes, you could run qa1 shocks if you want, my kits come with double adjustable viking coilovers (which is actually a split off off qa1, much better product, and all American made unlike most of qa1 shocks, while not a big deal to some people, I...

Ok, for the record, no, this is not some new invention like some seem to think others are making it out to be, secondly, before you start misleading others, maybe you should know what a kit contains. Just to clarify, a full kit contains the following: New upper and lower control arms,new...

It's about 2 inches at lowest point lower than a stock k frames lowest point

Just need to bolt up the other spindle, put brakes on and she's done.

Here it is

Thanks! I Have the k frame bolted in along with the rack, I'll put more pictures up later

Finished and powder coated. First picture is after motor mounts were welded on. My camera on my phone quite working, sorry I couldn't capture pictures of fit up. I'll post installed pictures

Sounds good, try to put a picture, because if memory serves me right, the pump/ sump area of the pan is right in the front, then goes up, roughly where mine actually goes down. Make sense?

Thank you sir!

I'm not 100% sure on that, can't say one way or another, I don't have one handy to measure, so I don't want to say one way or another. I do know it clears small block and big block as long as there's at least 6 inches before it dips down to the sump. If you see my picture, that's a big block...

How do I access your videos?

Ya, I'm almost positive a stock oil pan won't work, can't say for sure as I haven't messed with the new hemi in an a body

Stock oil pan?

What are you running for a motor?

Would anyone be willing to try this product and see how they like it? I'd love to get it out there and see what everyone thinks.