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put a stroker kit in it

Krooser you ok?

Not true guys I already commented on this Who made the first DC cams? RAcer Brown? Even Chet Herbert and Crower had many .904 lobes back in the day UD Harold did some for Lunati then Ultradine but not for the earlier Comp line The Lunati's were quieter than the comp and made more power...

combustion chamber and piston top was the same for all I doubt that carb tuning or ignition timing would have made much differences Some competitors have said they would make changes based on what the know now, even as to cam advance which would have helped many but they chose their advance...

very streetable lobe profile but would have lots of overlap flow thru so maybe not so great gas mileage and lots of ex heat This test did not care about overlap also since running 110 it was low on compression so an early intake closing really helps great video by the winner and also from 2ed place

too much spin here but DV based his cam on his SBF database, he is currently working on BBC I'm surprised he did as well as he did. Jones is correct on the combo compression is too high for pump gas and too low for E85 Jones did not want to take the time for the mismatched build BTW I paid the...

Not exactly Isky had his one and only (catalog) .904 cam for our 62 413 great consistent cam then Racer Brown who ran faster or slower inconsistent The Isky cam is still good for dialing in chassis and would make a good bracket cam but obsolete today and gone from the catalog

4000 to 7000 for the averages

even if you do not have an overdrive you can put in a lock up converter (pump, shaft, valvebody) I built a 998 for my daughters pacer trans from a AMC 360 cop car Transgo kit and Continental converter (RIP)

Mike jones inverse radius roller most torq for same duration call mike

just use machinest dye to check valves valve grind compound leaves a line- right but the valve gets bigger with heat and the line is no longer in the right place you are not building a model A or Chevy stoveblolt

rumble got it right several pages ago me- stroked 340 but wait- that's a 360 much easier parts availability and on the street cu in rule cast cranks do not break and are a lot cheaper than forged most power per dollar starts with a magnum takeout look at it another way and start with heads or...

you are fine 302s need more bowl and port work to make more hp

keep posting post cranking comp when you get it together and mech comp

Some truck/motorhome heads, marine, industrial

back to first post-- blue would not be teflon

good moove make sure you have a good finish on your valve stems some cheap valves have the finish of files I put a fine finih with a Sunnen stem hone to give a nice crosshatch but a few strokes with some wet or dry paper works

not a318 hater it's $$$ to get a certain amount of torque now pick how much you want and sharpen your pencil

what you are missing are normalized seat durations looking at your list the clear winner is the shorter lunati just looking at how much shorter @.050 and the lift 340 cam would suck on a 8.25 motor- it's way bigger you want the best get mike jones 256@,006 cam has 460 lift that crower post...

do not lap determine valve or seat you can check runout or swap a different valve if it's the seat the whole head has to come apart if grinding using a cutter not so much I touch all new valves, od hone the stems and check runout chk the guide clerance seats etc

The 272@.004 duration on that summit cam pencils out to need about 9.7 compression ratio, same as 264 @.006 problem is it has no lift or area under the curve what did you figure your compression is now that you have your heads? did you post your deck clerance etc? if you do have around 9.7 true...

i'll take a look when I get back from the DR lunati is best choice for a shelf cam but which one

just pencil it out both ways just because you can do it does not mean you should A 360 magnum may be less expensive to buid even if you have to buy a core or just stick one in and go and do not use that cam even if it's free

teflon seals do not controloil as well as viton they are too stiff do a search

ixnay on the teflon seals what size now I like the 031 better than the 000 but nothing wrong with 9/16 use biggest that will fot in your inner spring get viton seals

yes

shape and velocity is better bigger can kill your low end = flat spot so unless you trailer and run high rpm only... same with big valves, big cam , big compression all have to work together

aj did you use something like (btw there is no "like") spray Hylomar? retorque the heads? tks and your analysis is spot on

before you break out that impact wrench know where you can get some u bolts they strip or break, strip you can double nut

with most duals you can use the larger or even larger stem seals I've had the .5 split right after machineing others after running and motor starts using oil OOOH TQ or TQ replacement all day long