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I need your help! Please go to http://www.mopar.com/moventure/vote.php?id=39 and vote for my video, "& Chris" You can vote once for each email address you have Share it on your wall, emaill all your friends!

I was referring to the loose side of the control arm, where the torsion bar came out. I wasn't sure if I needed to add anything for safety. After speaking with a couple of people, I know that I can either leave it as is or drill and tap the mounting stud and add a bolt. This is my first...

So I am doing a coil-over converion on my A-body. While I could simply take crank the torsion bars down so they are unloaded, that does not get rid of the weight. What have you guys done to remove the torsion bar itself and mount the lower control arm?

Thats where I have been leaning, but I would have to take it from a decent car, the 75 is not worth much. I will likely go with the 9" ford my buddy has. it needs cut down, but so would the others and its already out of the car.

which one should I go for? I would prefer a dana 60, but I don't have one of those.

What rear diff would be in a '67 new yorker with a 440 and what would be in a '75 New Yorker with a 440? I am looking for a rear that will handle 600 hp and I can get my hands on either of these cars, but they are burried in a field and I can't get out there to see what have unless I am going to...

Like I said, I have plans for the 10-bolt and I want to keep it Mopar. Will the 8 3\4 live behind that much power with the possible addition of 200 hp worth of nitrous? I know Ford and GM rears, but I don't know jack about mopars! This was my question, what would live behind 550-600 hp from the...

The GM 8.5" 10-bolt is just as strong as the 12-bolt and more plentiful, I just don't want to use it as I have plans for it already.

I am building a '74 Scamp and I will have a 550-600 hp 383 under the hood with 727 behind it. Obviously, the stocker (7 1/4) isn't going to cut it. What rear should I use? I have the following- Truck 9" GM A-body 8.5" 10-bolt I would prefer Mopar, but D60s are not cheap and hard to find...

What about a '74 Scamp?

They were both 400+ engine builds- a Buick 350 and 302. If it blows up, it blows up. I will check everything for clearance, but those heads are supposed to fit the 383. Hot Rod used them with no issues on .060" block. my block is .030"

of course these numbers are hypotheticals, but that is what my desktop dyno software is coming up with. 705 hp at 7500. Are you saying the valves won't clear the cylinder bores? I have built two engines that I estimated with the desktop dyno software, and both were within 10 hp on the dyno.

OK, so I finally got my heads for the 383 build. Here is the run down so far- '69 383 hp block, .030 over stock crank Eagle H-beam rods Edelbrock Victor heads Edelbrock Victor intake Lunati valve train Lunati mechanical roller .600 lift in & ex Milodon pan and oiling system So here's the...

Anyways, I appreciate all the help. If anything arises I will holler back. I will try to keep you updated as it progresses.

Man, I need spell check.

Alright, we just got off on the wrong foot. I didn't mean to insult anybody, I just felt like some of the answers I was getting were- thats not gonna work, you won't make that much power, its gonna cost too much, that car is too weak blah blah. There have been quite a few really good and helpful...

I have ordered the Schumacher mounts this afternoon. I was just asking about the rear, I really didn't expect it to hang with 650 hp, but then this is my first (technically second) Mopar. I am used to building fast Buicks. As far as the brakes, I will likely be switching to a hydroboost since...

We are porting the heads and are going to see what they do. I am also working on getting a set of Edelbrock Vic max wedge heads, which will make the power. I have been thinking about doing an aftermarket rear. Subframe connectors are on the list. You don't think the front discs will stop the...

My scamp has the original 318 in it, it currently runs and drives. I really don't think I need rear discs on this car. I will run rear discs if I run an aftermarket rear, but if I can keep the stock rear. I just got the car today, I am not sure what rear is under it, I have not hada a chance to...

Well, I sold my 72 charger and picked up a 74 scamp. I have a 650 hp 383 I want to drop in. Anything special I need to make this happen? I have a 727 being built for it, and I will be running a ladder bar set up with 10" slicks. Think the stock rear will handle it?

I am trying to figure out what year 727 I have. the casting # on the right side of the bellhousing is 1B435244 Thats all I can find. Can anybody help me?