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I have the RIDGID brand kit with a hammer drill, 1/4 impact driver that I ad a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter and a 1/2” impact wrench. Came with two batteries and is covered by a lifetime service agreement, batteries included. I have rebuilt my whole front suspension and rear with these 3 tools in tow...

If you’re slapping in a new box I’d buy the Hirev 7500 from Jegs. Its made in the USA and is comparable to the chrome box. I have one with the whole jegs kit in my Coronet, it runs great. Its probably better than the original chrome due to the fact its newer with newer components.

I got a call from Right Stuff today and they’re sending a replacement MC that they said to go ahead and sell to recoup my loss. I’m fine with that. Anyone need a new 15/16” bore manual MC? I’ll be at MoPar nats :)

I received my DoctorDiff Aluminum MC and it solved my problem. DrDiff said it sounded like an out of spec piston or bore causing it to loss pressure. Now I just have to fine tune the adjustable pushrod length on this new set up, but she stops on a dime now.

Dr.Diff 15/16 Aluminum MC is ordered. Right Stuff has yet to get back to me. Should of just ordered from Dr.Diff to begin with, he is much more thorough. Right stuff also doesn’t seem to have a great rep for customer service. Hopefully this is my problem and I’ll chock it up to ya get what you...

Thank you for your ideas, I really appreciate the help, and advice you and the others have given me

And I always seem to keep getting air from my MC when the pedal drops.

I did that after I bled it once to see, the only discernible fluid level change I see was a minute drop for the front resevoir to the rear drums.

No fluid from the rear of the MC either like a leaking seal

I rebled them, held and the longer I held it would go down very slowly and then would need pumped up again like I never bled them. I ordered the drdiff MC and if that’s not it I’m gonna have to dig through it again

They’re full about 1/16-1/8” below the top

It takes a considerable amount of pumping when rebleeding, then still feels off unless I bench bleed the MC again. I have a helper, I also jack that part up higher than the others before bleeding, try to get the air at the top bleeder on the caliper. No air from the rear circuit though, looks...

Rear drums, hooked to the front resevoir, the smaller one. I called Dr.Diff and spoke with him, he believes it may be the master cylinder too. Randomly losing hydraulic pressure due to a slightly out of spec piston. I’m going to call right stuff detailing and see what they say, Cass advised to...

I used the Synthetic DOT 4 because I was worried about it. I bought it new and in small bottles so I wouldn’t have to recap any and risk moisture getting into it. I just hope I can figure something out, I miss driving the old girl and taking the family on road trips

I bought the MC in that kit with the valve and adjustable pushrod. I decided to use a stock on that I didn’t need to splice. I was having problems before this new valve. I just didn’t get a good pedal before I swapped it, now its only safe for about 2-4 tries haha

Its the stock type fixed at I believe 70/30 bias

I can’t find a leak and it’s driving me nuts haha. I’ve gotta be missing something. Thank you for your replies, I really appreciate the ideas and input, I’ve gotta pick this car apart again and see if I am missing something. I did see a leak on the MC reservoir, but for the front bowl, to the...

I only get air if I push hard, it locks the brakes and stops very well, then the pedal needs to be pumped up from that point on until it is rebled

I recently did a front disc conversion with a Dr.Diff 11.75” brake kit and his stock a body dist/prop valve and used a Right Stuff 15/16” bore MC. I had to make all new lines because they were all siezed in my 50 year old drum distribution block. Everything bled great and I had a great pedal...

5x4.5 its a 67 Coronet. My dads dart isn't running and has the sbp

Now the question is, I've never messed with the rear axel wheel studs, do I have to pull it to change them too?

Well after looking more into it, you're all right. Suck it up and go RH. Unless I have a nice lathe it won't work and thats too extreme. Guess I won't have to worry about getting the studs popped off at Tire discounters after this. I guess I just wanted to feign originality to myself or...

I see what you're saying. I might have to turn down a bit of that knurl. Idk how that will effect it. If I have to I still have the RH lugs from the original wheels. Not pretty but will work for a bit I guess. :(

11.75" rotors are from late 70s cordobas etc. 76 up I think I did 77 and 78 abd got the same results for the front.

I looked up 1977 Cordoba wheel studs on dorman vs 1967 Coronet drum studs and the only difference is the drums have a .004 larger knurl. Would it be safe to reuse my old drum studs then? They're in good shape and my buddy has a press.

I'll look into that, I just bought all new lug nuts and don't plan to switch rear axels any time soon, when I do I'll switch to RH, but I prefer my LH. We'll see if they work. Thank you! Too bad they're so hard to find

I'm going to be ordering an MBM 12" disc brake kit, almost an exact copy of doctor diff. So 11.75" disc brake kit, but I want to retain the LH thread studs for the drivers side in the front. Does anyone know a part number for LH thread wheel studs for disc brakes that will work on these 11.75"...

Thank you! Its my baby. My old truck is a workhorse but I think it needs new rod and main bearings. :(

Haha! I kinda wanna rev to 7grand now lol. I think I'll just keep the thumpr and rev the snot out of it if its that entertaining! My 255s won't stand a chance. If its safe to rev to 7k I'm a lot more tempted to do so. Sorry I don't have an Abody, yet! I want a dart something fierce. My dad drove...