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So you just retard the timing so much that it can't speed up past a certain rpm? That's really cool I would never have thought of doing it that way. So you don't even need to add more programming for that I guess you just extend the timing map to the rev limit. That's neat.

Got a couple more modules the other day. First one I pulled at the junkyard was an aftermarket one and I don't know if I trust it so I pulled another and figured I should just buy both to mess with them if I need to. Haven't had time to wire them in. I'm going to set one up sometime this weekend...

Sorry for late reply, been a crazy week. I'll have to look into CVAVR. I get what you're saying about interrupting the firing time to keep dwell up now, I'll have to work that out in my program as I don't have anything in place to do that yet, but I think I know how I'll do it. Did you include...

I'm using an arduino nano for my controller. So you're just limiting the current that can go to the coil so it never gets oversaturated basically? I'm going to need to read up on IGBTs so I can try to remove the HEI module from the system eventually.

Is there a way to test it? Like I said, I spun a distributor by hand that I had hooked up to it and was getting pulses out the negative side, so some amount of opening and closing is going on inside it still. I don't know how to know if it is doing it correctly, though.

What actually determines the spark duration then? I was under the impression that as soon as the negative is disconnected from the coil, the spark fires and it's duration was just a constant quality of whatever coil is being used.

The distributor I'm using in the car is the same one that was running fine with the original ignition. Right now I just have it ziptied to a BIG cpu heatsink, but it's on there pretty good and flat and there was even a little thermal paste left on the heat sink from before. Nothing else...

I've got an 8 pin module, actually. It should work just like an older 4 pin as long as 5V isn't applied to the "B" pin as far as I know...

Trying to test install an HEI module and coil into my car... Having a lot of trouble and I don't know why. Thought maybe the coil was bad. Switched back to the standard coil. I know it can't run that way long but I wanted to test it since it can start on 12v without a problem with the canister...

Wow, that's really cool. I have the basic programming written for the micro controller part of it. Just need to test it and then debug it. My plan was actually to try to do a coil on plug setup after I got this HEI system working, too. The real restriction seems to be dwell overlap at high RPMs...

I’m actually trying to make my own controller for an 8 pin HEI module, so thank you for the dwell range that is very helpful!

Anyone got any good recommendations for e-core HEI ignition coils for an HEI ignition swap? I'm going to test some more tonight, but I think the one I got from the junkyard might be bad. An MSD Blaster SS is only $60, so I'm questioning whether it is worth "upgrading" rather than grabbing...

Check around the bolts on the diff cover for a tag that has the ratio on it. I assume 7 1/4s came with them - I know 8 1/4s did. Might be hard to see if there's a lot of grime on there, so double check. I never noticed I had one till it fell off when I washed off the cover!

The engine bay harness seems salvageable... You'd have to redo the ends of the wires before they go into the bulkhead connector and then test them all for continuity and replace any other parts that look burnt up, but it would save you some dough. No matter what you do, I'd ditch the terminal...

I agree that it's good to be wary about who you believe and where their interests lay, but I believe their numbers based off what I've seen from their programming and read from them in articles. They seem to know what their doing, and I have chosen to trust them. Whether or not other people do...

I don't think this is in reference to a fancy, "high-end" care, though. If you're looking for original and pretty, you're going to pay for it no matter what. You can pay in horsepower or money. If you want more power from the same engine, use an electric fan. If you're going for the highest...

There's been a lot written about junkyard fans that do the job more than adequately. Ford fans from the early 90's specifically. Off the top of my head, I believe they were the fan from the 3.8 V6 as used in early 90's Taurus models, the dual fan from a little later Cougars (don't remember the...

Why would you want to give up all that power though? You can spend $100-200 and set up an electric fan, and you get all that power back. A lot of bang for your buck

There’s no way the difference in intake manifold temp from a crank driven fan makes up for the power that the fan steals. Electric fans eat up a ton of HP. If the slight change manifold temp cold make up for that then the baffle would make a huge difference. Heat transfer through the oil is a...

I'd imagine much less effective but still some effect. Even with the air gap, the entire aluminum intake is one piece, so some heat is going to get up into the intake. And in most setups there isn't that much air flowing through the gap with the firewall right behind it I would imagine.

It's still one hunk of aluminum. Basically one big heatsink. I don't really have proof one way or another, but my money's on the baffle making a difference, even if it's a small one.

I'm just relaying what I've heard. I saw someone post about it and they claimed it saved them. Nothing wrong with an extra safety net. I know I'll be buying one because they're cheap, quite possibly effective, and look neat.

I don't know about useless. It keeps hot oil off the bottom of the intake. I'm sure that has some effect, even if it's barely noticeable. But, the more useful thing I read somewhere on here was that it can help keep lifters in their holes if a pushrod fails so you don't lose oil pressure.

I thought I had read somewhere that some 1975 models came with it before they got rid of the requirement?

Does your car have the seatbelt interlock system still functioning? There's a button on what will look like a big relay on the firewall. Press the button in and it will click. If it starts afterwards, that's your problem. Mine would trip sometimes out of nowhere before I disabled it. Think the...

You aren't reading what I'm writing man. All I'm saying is aluminum transfers heat better and a cooler chamber is better. I don't know if aluminum transfers heat better enough to have a cooler chamber. I don't want to guess one way or another, because I don't know. I'm going with aluminum heads...

That's science, not an "old mechanic's tale". I said I don't know if it is enough to actually make any difference in combustion chamber temps, but aluminum DOES transfer heat better.

Aluminum transfers heat better, so it stands to reason it could pull heat out of the combustion chamber to the water jackets better. Who knows if it's enough of an improvement to make any difference in chamber temps, but in theory it is some kind of improvement. It'd be like moving the coolant...

I think there has to be value to using material that keeps the combustion chamber cooler just based off the way combustion and detonation work. Whether the benefit of switching from iron to aluminum alone is even enough for a tiny bit of measurable benefit is up for debate, but the concept has...

Who grinds Hughes cams? Also, I want the hp and torque at low rpms. Going to be a street motor. Does the larger can help with that? I assume they recommended that because they thought the smaller one I was looking at would be the restriction at all rpms.