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Good thought. After searching out this issue, I see that the Weiand 7510 isn't the best choice for a driver anyway. Heads are for a 2 bbl, so I'll start looking.

After these discussions I'm leaning that way myself. Hard to justify making mods to an engine to accommodate a bad manifold. I really appreciate FABO and it's members for helping solve problems like this.

That's correct. It slides on the china wall back and forth, and the cast iron manifold fits with no slide.

Thanks DartSwinger and Dicer- For grins I measured the distance between the rails on both manifolds. The Weiland is exactly 1/8" narrower than the cast iron manifold. 7 5/8" vs. 7 3/4". I am now suspicious of the Weiland, as I look closer, the rails have fairly deep scratches running...

I re-read your post- saw you used a silicone bead on the china walls. Got it.

What did you use in place of the cork gaskets?

It is used and I don't know much about it. The rear water jacket seals on the back of the manifold show some corrosion, so I can assume that it has been used, but the seller didn't know much about it. It could have been machined.

Cast aluminum is quite brittle, so I was very careful tightening. Your comments help- if all aluminum manifolds are like this, then I need to make this one work somehow.

The pins are not in the block china walls, so that's not a problem, but it was worth checking at this point- thanks.

Engine is a 74 Dart 318. The block had both locating pins for the heads, no locating pins for the manifold- should there be pins for the manifold?

I shared the same concern about coolant in the valley, and there was some in there, but don't know if it came when I lifted the manifold off. Sealant is a possibility but the gap seemed pretty large for a sealant fix. That's why I'm gathering thoughts- thanks for yours.

I bought a used Weiand 7510 aluminum intake for my LA and cannot get it to seal. The rear coolant ports both leak. When I removed the intake, the metal gasket ridges were not flattened, and it does not appear to fit. As a sanity check I compared the fit on the head with a cast iron 2bbl...

I know the potential for that is there, but fortunately I'm not upside down in this one yet, but it ain't over! That's why we started with a "driver" and not a concourse candidate. That was smart.

Ouch! Nice thing I've found, even the parts I've bought by mistake seem to sell, which lessens the cost of my education.

Being a novice, hindsight is a wonderful thing. Sometimes those lessons are pricey, but we're learning.

Here's pic of the welded weight on the balancer. Weld is pretty "funky", which makes me more suspicious.

I am aware of the smaller snout- had a '65 273 that I couldn't match to my tranny- ended up selling it. There's so much we don't know about this motor, I'm now suspect of everything. If we can't find a "smoking gun", another engine might be the safest route. Evidence pints to the engine threw...

I can inspect the torque converter, but I've already disconnected everything to pull the motor. Should have posted this earlier. Lesson learned! I have found so much good info here on A-Bodies, I should have known better to ask first. We'll pull it and give it a good going over. I If we...

I understand now. Yes the engine and trans were originally a pair. That weight on the balancer really puzzled me too. Really a shame too. It runs so nice, but at 1000 rpm and up it really shakes. Something is not right, so it's coming out. I'll check the torque converter for weights also...

Did you mean internally balanced torque converter?

We noticed during rebuild that someone before us welded a steel weight onto the harmonic balancer, which tells me this problem could be deep and old. We also found it had thrown a rod at one time and did some minor? damage to the crank. Torque converter was the original one with this...

I recently put a 1974 318 motor in my 64 Barracuda. It fit, but just barely. Unfortunately, the engine has a severe vibration/balance issue that we have to solve. Since the motor we rebuilt had some internal issues I may want to put in a different short block, and still use the aftermarket...

My thanks to everyone for their insight and comments. After reading all the great advice, I tend to agree with the majority, that it would be more work than its worth. I do like the "coolness" of the poly motor and how it can be built to the moon, but this Cuda doesn't need 500 HP. Maybe my...

I'm considering buying a 318 poly to put in my 64 Barracuda, along with an A727 trans. I know the heads are a bit larger, but I'm hoping there's room. Any headaches or horror stories to report?

I'm restoring a 64 Barracuda and bought a 66 273 that has a pilot bearing diameter around 1.5", which is smaller than the 727 I was hoping to put in. I have been told that I will need a 18 spline 904 to get the torque converter with the right pilot bearing diameter. My open question is: Is...

I found the parts that I need, but I don't know if my 7 1/4 is OK. If you still have the R/E after I get it running I may look you up.

I'm rebuilding the rear brakes on my 64 Barracuda with 9 inch drums. When I bought the car, the rear brakes were totally stripped from the car. I have found springs, shoes, drums and self adjuster hardware, but I have yet to find the emergency brake lever and strut arm; the rectangular spring...

I have a 273 with a 727 Torqueflight going in. It will be OK for now, my hot rodding days are (mostly) behind me. If the R/E causes trouble, I'll look around for an 8 1/4.

I think I'll go with the larger 5 bolt 4 1/2" pattern since most of the new wheels use that.

I appreciate all the good info. In the disc brake kit, they say you must use a "green" axle bearing. I'm having trouble finding that for my 7 1/4 rear end. Any ideas? Here's a current pic of the car.