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Yes, thats the one I have, thanks!

My goal was to get the original gauge to be operational again, as the previous owner had installed misfit aftermarket mechanical temp and oil pressure gauges below the dashboard. No original senders where in place. I asked my workshop to reconnect the original gauges, which failed big time...

Thanks for all help! (I have not tinkered with cars in 40 years, so the learning curve is steep...) Problem solved - We have pressure!

Thank you all! Just wanted to round up my own thread, got the correct sender and located the right wire. YES! - We have oil pressure!

Yes, but the current one is a very misfit mechanical Bosch hanging under the instrument panel, I want to get the original gauge working again with a new sender, thats me. :-)

I appreciate your help indeed...but sadly we are on opposite sides of the globe. :thankyou:

I think it has good chassis ground, showing approx 0,5 ohms between the outer(black) nut on the sensor and ground on the engine.

Thanks, now I learned something today as well! I just have the new water temp sender to play with right now, trying to check the sender with an ohm-meter just shows an open circuit, both hot and cold, might be faulty then?

Trying to get the original temp and oil pressure gauges to work, I found a new problem. The voltage in the gauge-wires are pulsating from 0 to 7 volts, this happens with the engine turned off as well. Is this normal? (If I short the gauge-wires to ground, the gauges goes to max, so they...

I really appreciate all your help, but living in an apartment with a garage below where NO workshop activities are allowed puts a lot of limitations to my possibilities.

Thanks! So it´s not possible to check the sending unit resistance just on the bench as it will show an open connection as it does, right? (Good to know about quality issues as well, that might show up after installation then...)

No light, just gauge. No compressed air available, hmmm. The workshop installed an incorrect oil pressure switch and connected it to the gauge that pegged.

Got a new oil pressure sender unit for the original gauge. Just wanted to test it before installation, but it´s an open circuit, is it faulty unit? (Tested my ohmmeter with a small lamp, and it showed 5 ohm OK.)

I really don´t know, but the harness looks very stock to me, I though that connector should go to some sort of sensor on the intake manifold, uncertain of the function, see below.

Great advise, I will test that, starting with the brown wire suggested above. The truck does not have an oil pressure warning light, but the wire harness might include that connector anyway, sort of generic harness for several truck models? (Just speculating...)

Thanks, great information! I found this wire, not sure where it should go. Is it safe to attach to a correct gauge-sender without causing a major disaster?

Thank you! The workshop obviously installed an oil pressure switch which is wrong when connected to the oil pressure gauge, see picture below. When this didn´t work, they cut off the three terminal connector in order to solve the problem, using two of the wires to the switch, the result is a...

Yes! This was the type of sender that I had expected as well, still confused why the three terminal connector is there, I will look for a "hot" wire in the harness behind the engine. Is this the the only type of sender for the oil pressure gauge, or are the several types to be aware of?

Got my newly rebuilt 360 back in my Lil Red, WOHOOO!! The 1979 Lil Red Express truck has an original oil pressure gauge(no warning-light), but for some reason the previous owner had installed a non-electronic Bosch aftermarket oil pressure gauge, connected with a thin plastic tube. I told the...

Here are the numbers:

No need for any smog devices on vintage cars here, I have plugged the EGR. Any other differences between my 79 intake and the 71 non-EGR intake?

Now my newly rebuilt stock 360 on the dyno, 278 hp logged with the original intake in place as many of you suggested. 40 years until next rebuild. :thumbsup:

My first and only truck before the current one, a 1969 D200 with a 318, bought in 1977, sold in 1983.

Thank you, thank you, thank you all for the positive comments! I had dreamed about this truck since I first read about in 1978, but 21 years old living in the highest income taxed country in the world, it was WAY out of reach. A whole life later it was my turn in every aspect, found a one...

Without knowing - I think a modern intake manifold would not be allowed in historic racing.

Thanks, I think you analysis is spot on! The truck will probably see a timed track very few times, more like puttering around at lower speeds enjoying the views. My gearing is 3.55:1 and stall speed is 2500 rpm, with an open diff it just spins one wheel if I push the throttle, so most of the...

Sounds like I should stick with the original intake. I have not got the suggested specs. from the builder yet, but I told him I want a fairly stock engine, he will order a new camshaft as the old one had a few lobes that was a bit rounded. Here are some pictures from the disassembly, parts...

Yes - Anything else would not be allowed in historic racing.

No, he is a true Mopar guy with a lot of cards up his sleeves, his own historic racing 318 puts out a reliable 500 hp:

Wouldn´t an spreadbore-adaptor plate hurt the perfomance gains of the Airgap?