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I can’t wait to see this in the car myself. Been kicking around the idea. Definitely would be a show stopper.

Alright, apologies for taking so long to get back on here and post the findings. As it turns out, the converter drain plug was the culprit. Under a load the flex plate would flex back just enough for it not to make contact. In park with no load it would continue to hit. Simple fix all is well...

I bet that was a sick feeling limping home like that. Thanks for all your thoughts guys. It’s making me feel a bit better about it that we all have the same thoughts as to what it could be. Means it’s probably something simple and over looked during the install. A quick fix is my hope. I never...

I’ll keep that in mind Austin and see what’s going on. I re used the parking pawl that was in it. Assuming it was native to the transmission. But I’ll check for any movement in park for sure.

He’s driving it, 1969383s, I’ve not heard the sound yet. On yours you said until above 15mph, that’s what has me stumped thinking about it. He’s saying only in park. Any other selection it goes away. It’s probably simple and I’m over thinking it which I do often. I will check that linkage...

That would be my thoughts as well, he’s telling me no. No clue what bolts he used, I’ll find out tomorrow I guess. I’ve only ever heard of this happening with a flex plate or bolt issue. But the in park only thing got me. So I was curious if anyone else had ever heard of a converter or something...

As the title says guys, I built a transmission for my buddy’s car, (not my first rodeo) and it’s ticking in “park only” so he tells me, described similar to a lifter tick. I haven’t been over to check it out yet but wanted to get your thoughts and share mine prior to heading over there. Here’s...

All good responses, the diversity here is the same issue I’m having with making the build decision. Resale value isn’t really important to me, this one will stay and likely be handed down. Seems like most are agreeing to update ride quality, stopping power, stepping up the engine a bit but not...

Well pro touring should have been a third choice in the poll. Pro street to me is max effort barely streetable and what I have done on all my builds thus far in life. Pro touring would be as you guys have said more updated equipment and look, creature comforts, etc. Original style is what it...

Yep that’s my problem, I would be happy either way. As it sits it looks like an average 340 with some drag lites 295s in the back, 165r15 in the front. But as I had said in a post the other day, I been thinking about that FAST class racing, but, it’s not around here. They only sanction 7 races a...

Have a new project H code 73 duster 4 speed, non numbers matching. Do I restore to stock like condition, or go pro street. It already is somewhat pro street, but not cut up. I will not cut it up regardless. I just cannot decide a direction. I’m trying to post a poll, my first one. Help me pick a...

XE274H-10 This cam will bring you in on the low side. But with the 1.6 rockers you would be 230 duration at .050 and lift would end up being .520, but as rumblefish said your probably gonna have to swap the springs. Maybe go with those beehive jobs for a lighter valve train. Give you a couple...

Dodgedifferent, brother, with all that going on hold off on the compression bump save the cash. Honestly with those flow numbers your last big jump is at .550, after that the heads start slowing down. See your starting to only increase flow a couple points, 12 points between 500 and 550...

Rumblefish, Now that combo is right on the edge of pump gas, really about a point high for that camshaft, 10:1 would be better. Or bring your duration at .050 up to around 246. You will likely need race fuel, or jet up and pull timing to try to get it right on pump gas, without detonation. If...

Agreed, also consider at his current compression the RPM advantage is lost with the current cam, so the cam makes power to 7400 example, his engine runs out before 7400 is reached. So if he’s starting to fall off at 6800 what’s the point of a 7400 cam. I think we’re on the same page. If he pulls...

Don’t forget you need a high flow / high pressure capable electric pump, return line setup, boost reference fuel pressure regulator, so fuel pressure rises with boost or you loose fuel flow around 8 psi. Also want that boost timing master 6AL from msd or something similar to pull timing out when...

I don’t think any of us are cam experts. If I was I’d be making bookoo bucks doing custom cam grinding. In a nut shell and very lay terms yes. The higher you go on duration , hang open time, the more bleed off of cylinder pressure before the valve closes. To counter act you would up the...

11.8:1 Flat top with those heads will like 240-242 at .050 duration. Lift is another story, that needs to be matched to your head flow numbers.

Rumble fish, Brother I in no way meant that defensively. Was still drinking my coffee, was meant to be a joke but I forgot to add “ and this was my opinion, not butthole”. No I stand by what I said, the OP said he was using 360-1 heads from Indy, which are aluminum closed chamber 65cc heads if...

Yes .80 is his overdrive 4th gear, most who run that trans trap in 3rd, or 1:1, not 4th, that was my implied question stating that I assumed he’s in 1:1 or 3rd. Rumble fish, I’m spot on using premium pump gas. Opinions are like buttholes everyone’s got one. It’s up to him and his intended use in...

Alright, first let me say great job on the build. Family builds are the best, no amount of money can replace those good times. Looking at your build thread I think I’ve got your trap speed issue. The desk top dyno software is a great tool, but only as good as the info entered into it. Even then...

Definitely valve float. I’d also put my money on incorrect pushrod length. Just eyeballing the wear in one pic makes me think your too short, if you haven’t already check that. These guys have already given you good info about bringing the spring rate up, I personally would go with the higher...

249 at .050 you should be running over 12:1 Static compression. Unless you intentionally went too high on your duration to drop your DCR for use with low octane fuels. At 10.5:1 static I feel you would be better suited at around 230 to 233 duration at .050. using premium unleaded. I cannot...

On hydraulic flat tappet I never bleed the lifters, I find it easier with them pumped up. What the other members have said is correct, yes you can reuse, a cam upgrade would be better but depends on intended use. Myself, I use the old school method to set the rockers on hydraulic flat tappet...

I read through all the posts briefly, lot of good info already said. My thoughts, for what I think your doing, port match that 360 intake to your 318 heads, just the edge to smooth the transition. You can do it with the gasket marked and your choice of dremmel. Thermoquad for sure, I’m a big...

Also for the good of the group. I see a lot of people just throwing high lift cams in their setup. Seems to be a general consensus that the larger the lift the better the flow and performance. Couldn’t be further from the truth. Over camming an engine will kill it. Some say to pick the cam...

Where to start and in what order. First you need to calculate your actual static compression ratio. Assuming 10:1 is correct, you are going to want a cam around 221 duration at .050. Advertised duration will not really tell you how the camshaft will act. You need to concentrate on duration at...

With 237 duration at .050 intake you should be somewhere around 10.75:1 to 11.0:1 SC, (static compression), to make good use of that cam. So your just about a point low. Something around 216-220 at .050 would wake up your combo with that compression ratio. Over duration is actually lowering your...

Sorry to hear about your dad, glad his contribution set you up with that sweet ride. Love the hood stripes detail. That gas cap is the perfect touch to remember the old man by. Thanks for your input and pics.

Living the dream...