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Success! Thanks for the input all. @Rick@Laysons I ended up with a price of rubber fuel line with a magnet shoved in the end. @clementine I had the cage installed. I don’t trust my welding skills with my life, all the other work is mine though.

Some additional info. I dropped the bolts in at the blue area, and they didn't come out in the red area. Also, there is a roll cage in the way. (the doors have been taken off since this picture).

Thanks for the input, but the doors and fenders are off the car. The bolts are in between the welded sheet metal below the A-pillar, and I can't see in there. the cavity looks to split in sort of a Y shape, the rear side should have dropped them to the area of the lower hinge, so they must have...

So I was taking the hinges off my car to clean them up, and I dropped one of the upper hinge bolts between the inner and outer body panels, apparently didn't learn my lesson and did the same thing on the other side. I have tried magnets and a grabber tool, but I haven't been able to retrieve...

Your odometer will think you are going farther than you actually are, so take 90% of your odometer reading when calculating MPG.

The lower bump stops are one of the things that are on order. The arms look to clear everything, I have already reworked the normal interference areas. I think I found the taller bump stops on Summit, energy suspension number 9.9136? From what I have read the difference in spindle height is not...

I am mocking up my suspension and notice the upper control arm is very far away from the bump stop. I am using the following parts: SPC upper control arm (2nd Gen) QA1 Strut Rods Boxed stock lower control arms F-Body spindles Sway away 1.24" torsion bar Setting the QA1 Strut Rod to be free...

Its going to be a race car, but I would like to get the area better looking while it is all apart. I did the best I could with the welder and grinder, but there are still some pin holes and a bit of waviness I would like to smooth out. Also, I added a picture to the original post of the area in...

Thanks all for the reply’s so far, I have updated the original post to show the area that needs some filler. It is just some self etching primer on there right now, but it will come off when I figure out what to fill it with.

Not all the spots, but I would say this is representative; It is the battery box area (It was rusted through and I removed the large support from the backside since the battery wont be under the hood). The other two areas are the closest to the exhaust where the shock towers (braces?) are.

So I did some rust repair on the inner fenders of my car. I butt welded in some new metal and ground it all down; it turned out pretty good, but not perfect. I want to skim coat it with something to smooth it all out, but since it will be near the exhaust, I want to make sure I use something...

It wasn’t too bad if you access to a mill, and a boring bar would have been ideal. Not sure about doing it on a lathe, you could probably center it on the bearing bore, but it might take a bit more time to fixture.

Thanks for the info, if the stock parts don’t fit up I’ll look at the Ford seals.

I went ahead and cut my aluminum extension housing to the same dimensions as the iron 30 spline unit I had. It wasn’t that much, less than 0.25 on the diameters, so not much reduction in the wall thickness. I did have to cut the seal bore about 0.1 deeper, but it shouldn’t affect anything. The...

Did it with my car. Rivnuts and a bunch of screws. The lip I built around the hole is pretty stiff, and it will be getting a cage, so it shouldn’t affect chassis stiffness.

That is insane looking, I love it. I am just hoping to save a few bucks by modifying what I have; I don't think my fabrication skills are up to that level yet. You didn't get any issues with binding by having a straight stroke of the shifter rods and an arc on the shifter pivots?

So I am looking to save some weight and money in my transmission build. I have 2 C-13386 extension housings (Aluminum overdrive 26 spline) and one C-99126 (Iron 1:1 30 spline). I would like to use my 30 spline main shaft with an aluminum extension housing (I'm going to use a 1:1 gearset). It...

$75 OBO +shipping

Assuming it has the original tail housing, it looks to be a ‘66. Check to see if its 26 or 30 spline output.

How to Identify an A-833 Chrysler Transmission - Mopar DiY A good reference here. C-97372 should be ‘66-67, so I’m going to guess your mystery number is a 7. Above that to the right could/should be a rectangle pad with more info on the date.

I just pulled a mystery A833 out of my car. It doesn’t have a raised pad on the passenger side, and according to Brewer’s website it should be pre MY 68. Mine doesn’t have a year on it, just day and month, and a different shape. Does yours have a raised pad on the other side, if so it would be...

I have a slant six flywheel for sale, its 122 tooth with a 2.16” crankshaft flange register. $100 +shipping OBO. Located in Raleigh, NC 27617

Slant six bell housing marked 3743643-1 with a date code of ‘74. It measures the larger 5.125” bearing retainer bore. Includes clutch fork, boot, inspection cover and dust cover. I also have a flywheel in good shape, it measures 11 1/2”, which should make it a 122 tooth. Asking $200 +shipping...

Sale Pending

Offenhauser 5270 for sale, It came off a ‘68 225. It is in good shape, but the top of the adapter plate has some cut marks, and one of the screws has been cut into a cross shape. $300 +Shipping. Located near Raleigh, NC.

@Oldmanmopar thats a nice looking front end, and well packed, and @WAYNE0 thats a nice looking car, Hopefully mine turns out that good. It makes sense that they took the fender out before it was fully cured, I was put on a 3 month wait list, so I am sure they were building and shipping as fast...

Thank you for the input, I will try the heat and clamp method first. If it still doesn’t fit the way I like, I will cut the section off of both sides and make aluminum filler panels. I don’t want to bash on the company, they were very responsive when they originally sent the wrong hood (Flat vs...

I was fitting up my body panels from AAR and noticed the passenger side fender has about a 1/2 inch gap from the headlight bucket/flange to the core support. I spoke with the production manager at AAR/Stinger and he said he they have been running this tool for ~20 years and hasn’t heard of this...

I am in Raleigh, NC. I could drive a couple hours north if you wanted to meet somewhere. Can you provide a ZIP code and I can look into shipping? Thanks, Chris

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