Search results for query: *

My '74 was also all original

My '74 360 has it...

Drove it for a couple of hundred miles since last post Not sure if too much vacuum is a typical concern or not, but my issue seems to have resolved after bringing into a normal range. No more excessive oil in PCV line. I've ended up at 10 degrees initial, 37 total. 20" vacuum. Switched one...

I hope so. FWIW, dialing the base timing back and bringing the vacuum to a reasonable level did stop the excess oil in the PCV for now. I did recurve the distributor and adjust the slots (already had an fbo plate) to get the power back. Total is the same, springs are lighter to have it come in...

From what I can tell, no significant blowby. PCV removed, there is just a light steady whisp of vapor from the breather. No chooching, no real pressure.

Factory covers with baffles, yes. One little tidbit I left out is that I also get a ton of whistling from the PCV, even after changing it. Curious: The PCV is pulling a lot of oil and it's noisy. So, I put a vacuum gauge on it. The engine's almost pulling a whopping 23 inches at idle! Now...

Update: I've driven this truck about 500 miles since this re-ring job. Mostly been perfect. Zero external gasket leaks, runs really good. Peculiar observation the other day: I found oil on the intake manifold, leaking from the PCV hose at the carb connection. When I pulled the hose off, it did...

Maintained, the factory mechanical choke works perfect, in my experience. YMMV

If you need the choke stove working, you'll need to keep the valve functional. Else, you can do whatever you want.

Cam chosen was the Edelbrock 2177 because of it's low lift with my factory exhaust rotators, and it's in-stock availability. With everything in great shape, this was a budget re-ring. That's why I chose not to go with new valves, springs, retainers to open up my cam choices. This is a heavy...

Huh, you're right. Let's try again!

And...Done! Cam broken in. Everything seems good to go. Bad timing with the weather, roads are too nasty for a test drive. Thanks for all of the feedback

Even closer. A pilot bushing OD mismatch is holding me up. I have a .940 bushing, but it fits loose in the crank. Bought a 1" nominal to try to work down to the .965+/- area I need.

Question for you fellas...and remember, this isn't my expertise. Up until now, I've done new school roller cam only. Should I be able to see lifters rotate while turning engine by hand? They do not. Wisdom tells me they wouldn't, all greased up, little pressure without lifters pumped up, and...

For those who care to follow, Looking more like an engine again! Assembling the front, installed oil pan. On disassembly, I noticed one exhaust manifold stud was broken. A curious thing, as all of the hardware was rust free and otherwise looked like new. Further investigation revealed that...

Went with the Edelbrock 2177 due to availability. Getting after it. Thanks again for everyone's help! This isn't my area of expertise!

Perfect. Appreciate the feedback! Seems expensive for what it is. But, sometimes you "gotta do what you gotta do".

Looks like cam availability is a real issue right now. Just about all of the suggestions here are out of stock and, due to external influences like the need for garage space, I need to keep moving on this project. How does the Edelbrock 2177 look to you guys? Looks like similar lift, a touch...

Manifolds. Everything external is factory, and leaving it that way. A few minor inside mods I toy with

I did not try going over 35 because it pinged slightly and occasionally where I had it, which I was surprised about. Perhaps that will be alleviated after this cleanup. And yes, I did verify the accuracy of the balancer after pinging so early!

Sure have! Guides were a touch loose, but nothing I'm going to worry about. Didn't use a significant amount of oil after I replaced the missing/broken/deteriorated valve seals a few years back Valves before: Cleaned up: Lapped: Also of interest, I replaced the cam bearings because I...

Thanks for suggestions guys, Lifters were kept in their orientation just in case. I even quickly built a little wooden jig to do so, thinking I'd be reusing parts: But it after it was disassembled, it was clear the lifters and cam are all worn out. No catastrophic failure, all evenly wore...

I'd like to reiterate that I'm not after max performance, just want to take advantage of a free/simple small upgrade if I can. If not, I'll be perfectly happy with a stock replacement, closer to what rumblefish is suggesting. Speaking of rumblefish's suggestion, does that imply I have no room...

My 1974 Dodge D200 needed a clutch. Somehow, this turned into the engine getting a refresh. I'm sure you all know how that goes. This is a nice original survivor, and I plan to keep it that way. Might even stick with the 2 barrel. I don't have a lot of experience in modification...

It's a reman. However, symptoms were the same with the original compressor. No knocking noises like worn/sloppy parts

I know this is an old thread, but it so perfectly tells the story. I signed up just to probe, in case members involved were still active. I'd love to know if there was ever a solution for this. My 1974 Dodge D200 does EXACTLY the same thing. New compressor, compressor clutch, drier, condenser...