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I am after mopar Holley A body hemi conversion headers, they are not made anymore and thought worth a try if someone has any? Yes i know its a long shot

Makes sense as dont think location matters as only a tensioner

Yep but your cable also has a metal rod that hooks onto the crossmember on right side. Its used to tension the cable. Where did you remount this rod?

So finally got my chassis connectors, these are for a Australian A body so should be the same except hand brake hole on other side. I am waiting on the torque boxes from USA as shipping wasn't too bad. Questions How do people set up the hand brake assembly? as the right side chassis connector...

I feel your pain mate we removed all the old sound deadening and was like **** on a blanket took crazy amount of time. Why didnt you use the raptor liner in the wheel wells?

Is the black raptor liner as well looks like has texture in parts of it? Appreciate this post pretty much gives me exact answer. I was thinking of doing the front wheel arches as well

Not really you talking a few liters of paint be lucky if a few kg, the dyno matt would have a little weight but the difference it makes is amazing. I remember when i did my first angry car with it, my feet used to sweat from the pipes heating the floor up, it stopped that and just the road noise...

Yep the holley ones are for the holley mounts as brings the motor forward an inch. Super hard to find as looks like they were not in production long

Because its not 1974 any more, and for multiple reasons. It doesn't chip like standard paint, way more durable -Has sound and heat resistance capabilities. I will also dinomatt floor pan topside and use a heat proof underlay with matting in it -Some people argue its a lot better than...

Thanks for the info, yep found it super easy to do in the tub of my ute but was 8 years ago lol. Any my panel beater mate helped. Looks good mate!!

The front i meant not the rear i know they different as have a 73 for my one

Didnt use raptor on the underside it was chassis black and stone guard, used raptor in the tub only.

Car probably will not even see rain, my ute which had a ground up rebuild 8 years ago maybe seen rain twice however since 2019 averaged about 500km lol. Lot of guys here in Aus use raptor liner as under body protectant as you can tint it plus also gives sound deadening and stone chip...

So i am pretty much ready to spray the underside of car with colour matched Raptor liner however have a few questions: -Obviously the rear of car is simple to figure out where to stop the underbody protection, with the front where did you guys underbody coat to? I am thinking stopping under the...

So the 73 bar is different shape to the 74 5mph bar? I have the 5mph bar and just about to collapse the shocks on it to pull them in an inch plus cut out heap of reo from back of bar to save on weight

I have searched high and low for holley ones, i may just get them custom made i think

Y Like your style mate, agree with the finish as to not end up with tape lines etc

Is your motor out as well obviously, will you just protect fenders when installing or remove alltogether?

I guess i could also have the guards removed when i install the engine and engine bay wiring so not leaning on fenders etc Ill defiantly paint the underside first so can get all the running gear in. As thats dont trust them around paint haha

Nice! I have one inch drop calverts which probably not enough but need to pass the pits first. I may need to add a block as well. Are the hd standard height or lower?

Not sure on colour as i cant pick yet as thats another issue i dont know what colour i want something that snaps necks lol I was thinking a Candy Purple or opposite end of the spectrum a Battle ship grey type colour i am going for a pro street look, duck tail, 6.4 hemi twin scoop, black bonnet...

Hahah Hhaha exact same wheel size as me, i also cut the lip back around the edge of the fender to help fit the tyre inside, as really dislike the look where the rubber sticks past the fender. Looks great mate!!! Why didnt you run Dr diff front and back?

Looks amazing mate love the wheel choice, i probably didnt make sense. Paint underside, engine bay, trunk, door jambs etc then pre assemble as much as i can, wiring, engine running gear etc. Spray back of all the panels like fenders, doors etc. Resemble the panels than paint the remainder of car...

O very nice!! Just thinking weather i am best just getting all the underside, engine bay, trunk and interior sprayed. Then reassemble all the driveline and most of interior so i dont risk damage in putting it back together?

Yep i am using the holley brackets that bring the motor forward slightly so no touching the fire wall thankfully. But yes i really should do a dry run with the motor first also to see what holes to weld up

So my car is all but ready for paint. Whats the best process for doing this to get the best finish and limit damage. Currently the car is a rolling shell. So there is a lot of assembly as everything has been removed. Entire car has been bare metalled, sand blasted etc and all in primer...

Well its time to start on the chassis connectors!! Body work all completed and ready for paint! Has a few small areas that just need a little bit of love, very minor couple panel gaps i want perfect that most likely just a bad factory gap. Loving the look of the ducktail it transforms the rear...

Thread dig, but how does the old style line up with the later model door trim do the lines etc match up?

Not purchased a engine yet as still throwing money at driveline etc haha. Yes it did look as tho people literally just had to put new fittings on to the new hoses to connect to the bulk head fitting etc. However i now cant find parts of my ac system as at the time chucked a lot of it out...

Yep i always put my builds on a forum as then holds me accountable to get them finished haha. Plus honestly if not for forums no way i would have atempted my last build and so many tips and tricks. Also a lot of money saved on parts etc.