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Thanks everyone, I bought this many years ago and was told it was a body. Glad it is finally confirmed. Thanks so much.

Have an 8 3/4 housing that measure 52 5/8 flange to flange with 43" spring perch centers. What does this one fit?

Do stenciled numbers survive thru the years? Im sure its cod. how would it read for a 71 year? Nothing else cast into the housing to identify its a 71? Besides the VIN.

Any markings or casting numbers on the trans that would tell its a 1971 trans?

What markings would I look for the ensure the 833 trans is the correct one for my car? What or how many numbers of the VIN are on the trans? What other markings are on the trans to identify it as for a 71 Duster?

One the pre 67 case couldnt find and stampings. Just a C95664 and 6x8 on the side cover.

So it should have pp833 and some date numbers on the flat area? Just no VIN, correct? Mine is totally blank. Do you know about the 4 speed I have without any flat area for the VIN cast into it? Would it be a warranty trans too?

Can you tell the manufacture date by these numbers above?

What do these casting numbers mean? C99126-3 H3 C99129?

So that explains the one I have with a flat place for the VIN# and no number but I also have one without any flt area for a VIN#. What's the deal with this one?

Did the have the flat area for the VIN# and it is just left blank?

Anyone know????

Did the factory warranty replacement 4 speed transmissions have the flat spot for the VIN present and just not have a number stamped or was there no flat spot on them at all? Did they use year correct trans when they replaced them?

Thanks I'll look at the 68 location. Did they do the washer on all of the 340 cars? I don't think this one has it.

I found a 69 340 dart with a motor and 4 speed trans that have no VIN#s on them. I was told it was a dealer installed motor for warranty work. Did they do this? Could this be??

My pilot bushing is shot I believe. Makes an awful sound when the clutch pedal is depressed. Have a new throwout bearing installed which I thought was the problem. Failed to look at the pilot bushing before putting it back together UGHH. I really didn't want to pull the bell housing off and...

Thanks a bunch guys. I'm going for the U joint swap.

I don't know how to set up the crush sleeve. I heard the make a U joint with small and large ends. Anyone know where to get one? or hopefully a part number?

I need to remove the small yoke on my 489 chunk and install a large one. Can I do this without hurting the crush sleeve setting?

Thanks for all the great info.

That's crazy stamping isn't it?

Thanks EL5. Guess it makes sense now. Probably had some head troubles in the past.

Thanks. My bud is tellingme it has one J and one head has an "O". Does this sound right? Was there an "O" head?

Should a 72 Demon 340 have J or X heads??

I had to weight it to ship and it weighed 265 without drums and with 4x4pallet. Just in case anyone else is interested. Felt more like 350.... lugging it around. So the weight of the Dana is probably around 240 or so. The pallet probably weighs at least 25 lbs.

Does anyone know the weight of a B Body Dana 60?

Thanks Crackedback. That explains everything I was wondering on identifiacation. What's a true B Body Dana 60 worth these days. I think I can pick this one up for about 800.

How can you tell when a dana 60 was made? Can you tell from any outside numbers if it's a power lock? Need to verify if it's a true 67-70 B Body rear somehow. Help please. Thanks..

I can't agree more. The B Body rear looks like a decent fit under the Demon. I'll probably move the perches in when I restore this car and use the B Body rear since the A Body ones are so hard to find.

I guess someone squeezed a B-Body rear in the Demon I bought. Looks like it was there originally though and the shackles are not moved.????