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sometimes the nicer TC you buy the harder they go in...more precision fit than a stocker follow above tips and hold your mouth the right way

I made my own using the stock base and welding on square tubing, making it adjustable with drilled holes and a 1/2" pin...used a front end bumper on the top...I run it around 1" from the floor for the street

all im saying is if everything is correct and it still makes noise,like you said, sometimes you can deviate from what the manufacture had intended to correct it rather than buying another gear set or living with it If you want to live with a whiny gear set or change em until you find one that...

I got to disagree with that to a point... in a perfect world, yes, you use your tool, +/- whats marked on the pinion and theoretically it where is supposed to be... suppose the pattern doesnt come right and is noisy..it does happen..ive seen it...and corrected it by +/- shims on the pinion...

how do you know the pinion depth is correct? just wondering how you detrmined this? if you used a measuring tool, or equivalent that is only a place to start from...you need to take a pattern and adjust from there sometimes

If its leaking bad there a good possibility the seal surface on the yoke is damaged clean it up and inspect when you get it out...any grooves and you either want a new yoke or a 'speedy-sleeve' to repair it

easy to get parts for...one thing to watch out for is if its a 2.45 ratio you will need a different carrier to go to the gear ratios you want...I run 8 1/4" in my 75 340 duster, 400hp and no problems, but im not out torturing it either...if your draging id probably recommend going to an 8 3/4"...

I run amsoil GL-4 in the trans Castrol sythetic GL-5 in the rear...make sure its something with the additive in it for sure grips DONT put GL-5 in the trans...

"posi" is blasphamy in the mopar world say "sure-grip" in addition to the above comments, the single track unit is weaker itself in design...not performance oriented...depending on what you are planning to do with it...i only run mine on the street and would not have a single track..just...

the shaft should come out like any other c clip set up, they sometimes come out hard if someone has mushroomed the pin by beating on it or if they are wore bad

definately not a dana looks like an 8 1/4 possibly

goes all the way through the axle tubes...I think ive seen them in the mopar magazines for sale...

a special tool inserts where the axle goes, has a hex on it and loosens the adjuster...I made my own for my 8.25" Poorman's way is screwdriver and hammer, tap to loosen, but crude at best...chews up the adjusters, especially when setting it back up

Most dodge trucks have a decal under the hood that states all of the options including what axle and ratio

not worth messing with.... upgrade to an 8 1/4" suregrip at least...

7260 and 7290 are U joints carriers are the same except for the 2.45 one cone sure grips are not rebuildable per say(although i have some machining trick to breathe new life into one) clutch types are rebuildable

I run one in my '75 Duster with no problems...not much in the line of different #s...correct that you do not want the 2.45 ratio...I have one of those sitting in the next room...the yokes came in 7260 and 7290 u joint flanges...You dont want an open one...they're weak...the sure grip carriers...

Blasphamy, I say! :blackeye: