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I seem to recall in 64 they had a plastic dash bezel that would cover the hole in the dash for the push button assy. A 66-auto steering column would give you a modern shift linkage for an automatic, A 64 pushbutton column would suffice for a floor shift. If you stay with the push button, be...

Also note you must check the fluid with the transmission hot and in neutral not park and on level ground.

Correct, as a further point the 273 was the only A engine with a small hub crank.

That bushing is to put an early small hub transmission in a large hub 68 and later slant 6 or a small hub 273 transmission in a large hub 318,340,360 crank.

You will need a custom converter the bushing you are referring to is to put a small hub converter to a large hub crank and the 273 never had a large hub crank as it was dropped for 68 so a custom-made converter is your only option. Are you sure you have a 273 engine? Many a 273 have been...

Only the slant 6 and the 273 has a small crank hub and they used it until the end of production, LA318 on the other hand only has the large hub. The slant 6 hub upsized in 68 the above statement only applies to the 273.

66 Dart driveshaft, Valiant won't work because of the different wheelbase and I think 67 Dart also has a different wheelbase than a 66.

Check it hot in neutral (not park) engine idling for those who don't know.

I would look into having the 4-inch pattern axles redrilled for 4 1/2-inch pattern, probably the cheapest route to convert to 4 1/2-inch pattern.

You are checking the fluid level in neutral (not park) with the transmission hot right?

All A bodies use the same 43" spring perch width.

Read this (2) Pre-'64 auto trans filter retrofit - Slant Six Forum

Until 64 they only had the external filter. In place of the pan filter, they had a bronze screen. You can use the 2-hole torqeflite filter, but you must change the transmission pan as it is different. I repeat you must use the 2-hole filter as that transmission has a front and a rear oil pump...

I would remove the flex plate and try to line it up on the converter, if it does then mark the flex plate and converter and reassemble.

I think at this point I would separate the engine and transmission and see if can be lined up with it unbolted.

Maybe, but also torque converters made for later magnum engines did away with the offset bolt pattern. I would wait for someone with more knowledge than I to help, I just thought this might be your issue

I think he already did that, maybe a mismatch between the flex plate and the torque converter.

Recheck the fluid level when the transmission is hot as long as it is between the full and the add lines it's ok, if it is overfilled drain some off by loosening the cooler line at the radiator with it idling in neutral until it is between the add and full lines. Torqueflite transmissions you...

Pinion seal mopar P/N is 2070113 is the original 1963 part number and was replaced by 2404134

Thats good, if the pinion seal was leaking it would throw oil on the under carriage including the exhaust and leak on the ground when parked. The part number for the seal is 8516N in National brand.

None I can see were there any issues before you opened it up? I would also replace the pinion seal and check the yoke for a wear groove where the seal rides on it. The pinion nut gets torqued to 240-foot pounds

Any numbers on it ?

The collar should come with the bearing.

I am not sure that the 62 and back As had a removable flange axle or not but I am sure someone will chime in and let us know.

That may also have tapered axle shafts with separate rear hubs, note if it has a big nut on the end of the axle shaft after you remove the wheel.

Assuming that it has the original engine the 74 transmission has a larger front hub so it wouldn't work but you may want to be sure it's the original engine. A lot can happen to a car in 50+ years.

This conversation is exactly why I became a mechanic I liked old cars and I could not afford to pay other people to work on them. Being a mechanic will not make you rich. At some point in the future the only people that will have cars will be rich people and mechanics

And if something goes wrong you will want them to warranty it and it's your used parts. I think it's worth every dime assuming they know how to do the job right.

I have a pair of those so old they have my great-grandfathers initials on then LD Louie Devantry rest in peace.

Clean the dirt out of the plug before you try to insert an extension or ratchet I would use brake clean and a pick or small screwdriver to get the best engagement.