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Some oil "may" have wept past the rings, but I wouldn't worry about it. Put it back together and back in the car and then drive it like it's stolen.

What PBR said, read the instructions until you can recite them. One minor screw up and the block is an expensive door stop.

The article you posted is 24 years old if you look at the dates of the pushrods installation and in service.

My suggestion would be to start with the basics. A good tune up, making sure the timing is correct and getting the carburetor lined out with a vacuum gauge. Don't inspect the plugs after puttering around the neighborhood, take it out for a highway run and then inspect the plugs at the first...

I would put the oil slinger on, it helps to keep the oil from migrating past the front seal. Ask me how I know?

I get it, a guy that ported heads for over 30 years used those words a lot when trying to explain to the customers. I would stand there while the customer was running his head, rolling my eyes.

Before you jump off and spend money unnecessarily, at idle squirt carb cleaner or brake clean at the shaft. If the rpms go up you have potential shaft leakage. Diagnose first, spend money second.

I'm running a bronze gear in a stroked SBM, but it is race only. I had mine cryo'd which made it a bit harder, I have minimal wear at best and it's seen a "lot" of race time.

Any of the after market pistons that are flat tops with two eyebrows should get you close to the CR you are looking for.

It looks like possibly a date stamp as to when they were possibly rebuilt 080202, August 6, 2002.. The TF might be the rebuilders initials or possibly the person who did the work.

@Rocket had stainless shafts at one time.

Where did you find them, are they an Ebay seller? The shafts look like they are for stamped steel hydraulic rockers.

I'm running the Isky ductile iron rockers on my bracket 408 with a Comp roller cam that has gross lift of .690 intake and .660 exhaust and have no problems.

Just out of curiosity, have you checked to see if the outer ring on the balancer has spun and giving you false timing stats?

Jack, as suggested earlier either the block or the heads need to be o ringed. Under normal street driving with the blower you won't normally have a problem. But when you get into it, the boost is trying to push the head gaskets out. That is ONE of the shortcomings of the SBM with only 10 head...

And get with 3B Engineering to correct the geometry, he knows of what he speaks.

I also think John is a stand up individual, but his WM trolling is a bit questionable. JK John, you are a wealth of knowledge to us here.

Are these plugs still available? I tried looking up Ez Site to no avail. I'd like to have at least 4 to put in my 4779 Holley carburetor.

Go back to the basic tune and begin making ONE change at a time to see how it affects the engine, how it runs out and how it drives. Making wholesale multiple changes will bite you in the *** because you don't know which change effected what.

@halifaxhops

I don't believe there is a difference in the trays, just the sumps and pickups. I think I remember comparing a 360 passenger tray to my truck 360 tray and didn't see a difference. I could be wrong, don't take it for granted.

I had to use the spacers on my engine, both the intake and valve covers were powder coated. I didn't want to take a chance and mess up the coating by grinding on either of them, it worked out very well.

On the jets, step down gradually. The change from 72 to 67 primary and 84 to 76 secondary is too much of a jump.

He thinks everyone's negative thoughts on that "precious" intake is a challenge. That being said, if he wants to put $150.00+ into a piece of junk, let him. If he "is" foolish enough to take it on, he can't say he hasn't been cautioned away from it. Personally, no matter what year SBM intake it...

I believe the peep hole was either on a van, or possibly a truck for ease of sight. In a passenger car, I see no use for it. As far as determining TDC, are you sure the outer ring of the balancer hasn't slipped?

If you get it welded up, just remember that there may be cracks you don't see until it's bolted down and heat cycled a few times. You may end up down the rabbit hole.

B3 engineering is the guy you need to talk to, he is a wizard at correcting the geometry of rocker arms.

Which rocker arms do you have, the HP or stock run of the mill rockers? They made 340 stamped steel rockers to clear the valve springs.

Use eye protection, shoot the area with brake or carb cleaner, fire it up, let it idle for a few, look for witness marks of leakage.

I would double check the timing, and check the balancer to make sure the outer ring hasn't slipped, this could give you a false reading on the initial and total timing.