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Well, I pulled the pan this weekend and sure enough, the rear side of the thrust bearing and the thrust surface on the crank are wiped.:vom: Now to figure out why. The only thing I can guess at this point is maybe the converter was not fully engaged to the pump on the tranny. Any other ideas...

I have a 318 in my '74 Dart that was freshened in spring '07 with new bearings, rings, cam and lifters, valve springs, and so on. I only ran the car a couple of times that year and not at all last year, so it might have about 100 miles on it. Early last week, I got it running again and noticed...

OK, I won't worry too much about it. It's apparent that these heads have been on a running engine since the passages were filled and the material has held up. I just hadn't seen anything like it before. Thanks for all the responses:thumbrig:

Yeah, I can see where that opening might create some turbulence, but now that I look, most heads seem to have it and be just fine. The only uncertainty I have now is if I should just leave it, try to somehow make it a bit smoother, or try to remove it altogether. As far as removing it, I'm not...

No, you're seeing it right. The filler actually begins in the exhaust port and runs part way into the heat passage, like it was packed in from inside the port. The intake manifold side is still open a little more than half way in.

OK, so since I made my original post, I did some investigating on other sets of heads I have kicking around. I guess I had never noticed that the exhaust port in question actually opened to the heat crossover. My bad. I suppose I've never had something to draw my attention to it either. As far...

Recently picked up a set of "302" casting heads that appeared to be in very good shape. They looked to be essentially untouched. The smog ports have been blocked and possibly a light port on the ends of the intake runners. Other than that, they appeared pretty well stock. Much to my surprise...

It didn't seem as though mine was at quite that steep of an angle, but I did have to tweak it a little to fit properly. They are fairly thin tubing and bend easily. As long as the dipstick will still slide down and you don't kink it you should be good.

I have tried it with just the balancer and no change. Haven't had a chance to try anything for a while, I was in a friends wedding this weekend so time was not there:sad10:

Yes it is. I tried coil first now to ignition box. If neither work, distributor is next.

I also tried a Mopar converter which is in the car now and no change.

I believe the spool mounts were a 73 and later piece? I have thought about your idea and its on the list of options.

6pk I'm in the process of trying ignition solutions. It currently has orange box. I still had stock blue box but it wouldn't fire. Also had MSD off road just to try but was unable to get it to fire. I was just reading some old posts on that may have it figured out. As far as a scope, my father's...

Yes, I've changed everything to 360 stuff. TCI told me all of their converters are neutral and the balance is made up in the flexplate, which I have from B&M. The mounts are rubber spool type and are in good shape

Correct, the converter is neutral and the balancer/flexplate are counterbalanced for 360.

good thoughts, but I've checked that out and clearances are ok.

Thanks for your responses guys. When I bought the car it was completely stock. The balancer and converter had no weights on them. I did try a balancer and flexplate for a cast crank 340 with no results. I could see a possible problem of not balancing after adding forged pistons but why the...

Hey everyone. I'm new to the forum and am hoping to find some answers (other than the several I have gotten locally) on a vibration issue. My car is a 74 Dart Swinger with a 318/904 and 8 1/4 w/ 3.90 sure grip.A few years back I rebuilt a 318 with forged flattops (can't remember brand or find...