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This is a wet block. It will be going in a street car. It has been expensive getting the block to a useable state, I'm hoping we can see some revisions to the block before more are sold to the public. It isn't a finished product by any means in the state we got it in, but this is the proto type...

Fair enough. I grew up on mopar stuff myself, its never been the best bang for your buck. The LS stuff is hands down the bang for the buck stuff. I'm currently in the middle of buttoning up my 80mm turbo deal on an LS in my daily driver pick up. But I'd like to see advancements in the mopar...

I know this is quite an old thread. But for those who are interested, the prototype aluminum block, is almost made into a complete engine in our engine shop now. I will probably make a full build thread on it later on here if you guys would like. A quick over view, it is a 468ci with Indy 245...

A little update... Got the engine in the Aspen a few weeks ago now. We were able to make some passes with it in some really bad air. 5000ft+. ran a bunch of 10.70's with a best of 10.68 @ 128mph. Pretty happy with it so far considering we are running on a 3.23 rear gear, 27" tall tires, and it...

UPDATE AS OF TODAY! Well, it has been VERY busy, figuring out the oiling/pushrods/adjuster/what a head ache this week. haha. So, we have clearanced the block, and flipped the lifters around, while we had it apart, we got looking at the cometic head gaskets, and found, this set was meant for...

I seen the article at our shop the other day. It was a cool build! Is this the same engine as before thathad the RHS top end, and was more on the tame side?? -Kenny

A little update, anything over 6000rpm, the the push rod would come out of the adjuster. It must just barely touch the head. So, if you look back a ways in the thread where I posted the picture of the lifter area, and the piece of block that is circled in red. That has now been removed, ( the...

First tug to 6000rpm netted us 100 points at sustained rpm. That is 600hp uncorrected. On a good day here we see 11% correction factor. So for sea level, 600hp x 1.11 = 666hp corrected. Time to check the rockers again and make more pulls if all is well! -Kenny

Yes the T&D's are cup style rockers. Haven't had an issue with them so far. The passage was clear and open when we took the rocker off the shaft, but I'm sure there was something in there while it was together. It's the only way it would starve the push rod. The guides are fine, the last time...

Nope, you can see it had to be an oiling issue at the push rod end. The push rod got very hot in the process and has a nice rainbow of color on it.

hold that thought. Ate a push rod and an adjuster.

Here are some photos from today so far... Loading up on to the dyno cart... Hooking up everything to start running.... The fuel has arrived! should have some numbers in the next few hours. -Kenny

It's ...... ALIVE!!!!!! Just waiting for some race fuel to show up so we can make some pulls.

That is correct. The lifters in this 48 degree also came from Brian.

Well, the intake was finished off last night. Here is what the bottom of the intake looks like now. Not much left to do now!!

Yeah, the $$$ just seem to keep flowing out. haha. Anyway, now we rail roaded this thread, talking about aftermarket blocks. I will just PM you and continue chattin' -Kenny

Yeah, prepping a stock block can get up there. I don't totally agree with the "you can buy a much better one pretty much ready to go for a small amount more." statement. The aftermarket blocks are still a small bore when they show up. They also have a higher nickel content. The bill just for...

Lookin' good MRL! What is the car that this power plant is going into? Should be a fun ride! -Kenny

Yeah, my 318 block 434ci. Engine did well, but was putting down 610rwhp on our dyno. So, when the head gaskets gave out, I decided it was probably a good time to start using my R3 in the car.

Yeah, you don't see too many B1-A-MC's around. I think it is a price issue, along with rocker gear possibly. I believe the Indy 245cc 360-1 will beat the Brodix for less money. I don't know that for sure though.

That is a good point you bring up. For example, my fully ported J heads flow 20cfm over my new casting W5's. There is plenty of meat around the valve guide area. They are meant to be ported! -Kenny

We never had an issue with our stock milled caps with the 1/2" girdle, and we definitely worked that stock block engine HARD! But I sure like your caps! Never seen them before! I will keep you in mind. How much power have you put through a stock block with those bad boys?? I would assume the...

Hmm.... Maybe the lifter made the difference. I was using a Comp lifter. Never seen it touching, no marks on the push rods, or push rods bending. If I did another 59 degree solid roller, I would use Brian's lifters. In fact, I sold one set to a customer last year I believe. He is using them in...

WELL SAID! There are a ton of good heads out there for Mopars! Yeah, they aren't cheap, but like Guitar Jones says, there are plenty of heads out there. It isn't just the oval port design that makes the head work, it is the push rod pinch that is taken away. Also, many are forgetting we...

Oh yes! I never had to grind the pushrod holes on my 59 degree stuff. But I used J heads, and then these W2's last. A friend of mine had a twin 434 to mine but with a cammando head on it, it needed some clearancing. Those Cammandos were pretty bad. They flowed terrible, nothing seemed to be...

That thing should fly when it's all sorted out. Do you have a fuel reg on the car? what is it set at? I would try another carb if there is one available. If that fixes it, then yours needs a rebuild, something isn't right with it. It isn't a tune issue, as it is intermittent. Yes, the ring...

Here are a couple more pictures.... Here is the part of the block that is in our way to turn the lifters around. -Kenny

A little update, The heads are on, and we are modifying the intake to clear the top of the lifters and lifter tie bars. The edelbrock intake dips down above the lifter valley. This is where the interference is. You can turn the lifters around, just as you would in a 59 degree block, BUT then...

Yeah, no need for the girdle at that power level, but the best way is to machine the caps. Personally, there isn't really any good girdles out there. That's why we build our own ;) 1/2" girdle Machined caps along with one un machined cap. Spot milled rear cap to match... -Kenny

Oh Yes! The joys of a solid lifter cam ;)