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I understand dividing vacuum by 2 and adding a point to get the magic #, but the p.v.'s are marked as E 3 5 6, and E 8 5 0, and # 8 5 8. Three #'s, not two. It seems the Higher the #, the more pressure it takes to close the p.v. w/ your fingers, the one i have in the primary side now is even...

spit on mine too!

i havent taken the rear apart yet... just acquired the car... i'm assuming it has a spool as yes it does squeal a bit around corners at around 10/15mph. moparmusclemagazine has a tech article on changing gears w/ a suregrip, anybody know of a link for a how to w/ a spool? i'm assuming it cant be...

it's got super stick IMCA circle track tires on there now. i believe it has a spool... my old man might have a ring and pinion lying around. i imagine changing the gears w/ a spool would be easier than a sure grip right? (1st timer)

actually i think they're 5.54's according to the online calculator. i think i've heard of a 5.5x gear made by someone back in the 80's so it might be true. the gas gauge thinks so!

right now, i think the gears are at least 5.13s!! that's probably the problem, performer rpm intake

Got a major problem w/ the 440 in my duster. i've got 11in wide tires out back, it will spin them in 3rd gear at 30 mph when you hit it hard. I bought this car a few mths ago and still haven't been able to feel that 1st gear pull. i have to granny it from 1st into second, then in 2nd if i dont...

"horsepower Sells cars, torque wins races" is how it is quoted i believe. i say, put a high winder to be different and slam a 5k stall converter on the tranny and 4.10's out back! now you've solved the 60' time issue. set-up your valve-train to handle the 8k plus shift points.. :tongue9:

demon's would probably be the same huh?

Try this site for your 318 build 'on the cheap'. http://goodysgotacuda.com/318build.html btw, i have a set of 340 'x' heads w/ 2.02 intakes, 1.60 exh for sale. they don't need a valve job... [email protected]

okay. bought a gauge, lowered it to 5.5 psi. went to ajust the float levels; the levels were already at the bottom of the hole where they were supposed to be. thats' fine and dandy, but the screws on top to adjust the floats were all the way closed. they couldnt be screwed down any farther...

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thank you sir

must be allen wrench time huh? holley recommends adjusting the floats... don't you need a feeler gauge or special tool of some sort?

yes the adjustment is the same, i see the locking nut on that pic, wonder how youre supposed to adjust the threaded shaft down to adjust the pressure. looks like the only part that moves is the locking nut that's threaded on there.

the dumb question from a carb illiterate person is how? the regulator is for 9psi, doesnt seem adjustable. maybe it is... is there another way via altering the carb?? wasnt the stock pump rated at 8 psi or am i misquoting info?

went through the whole fuel system; holley blue pump, regulator... it seems to be fine up until the carb. ran it last night, punched it, idled down, it stalled as getting too much gas, got out, removed the air cleaner, pump was still on but the engine was off. what do i see? gas still coming...