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I think that would drop your cc's by 4cc's, which would bring your compression up about a half point from 8.71:1. You're probably looking at about a 9.25:1 compression ratio which is good for pump gas. You might have to mill your intake to get everything to line up. Here's a site with alot of...

Rumble had the thickness info on head gaskets, I think most of them are going to be around .039" thick, that's what I plugged in for the calculations. You can get .029" for more compression (I think Mopar Performance makes them), but I'm thinking you're sitting okay with compression. You...

Ed - From the sound of this you have been looking for a reason to build another engine. I would have started with backing off the timing to 34 and seeing if that allowed you to run pump gas. Most everything I've seen says mopar smallblocks like 34-36 total, and you're running 38 total with a...

I would try backing your mechanical timing off to 34* and plugging the vacuum advance and seeing if it would run on 93 octane first. That would be a fast and cheap test. You might be down on power, but these other options of lowering compression or building a lower performance engine are doing...

Have you tried calculating your compression ratio? Can you put larger chambered heads on it? What about a thicker head gasket? Have you thought about backing off your timing so that it can run on pump gas? I would think those would be much cheaper and easily reversible if you want to get your...

I'm guessing your piston will probably sit .020" down in the hole, that's 4cc's, and your valve reliefs show +10cc's on summit's info page, your head gasket will be 8cc's. your volume at TDC will be 65 + 10 + 8 + 4 = 87cc. Volume of stroke = 752cc. Volume at BDC = stroke + volume at TDC which...

what pistons are you using exactly? did you calculate your compression including the head gasket cc's and did you account for the piston sitting down in the hole at all? i put some kb107 pistons in my 360 and they were dead flush with the top of the block, you might need them about even with...

bama - was it a worn down cam lobe?

You gave the engine a few good revolutions in your check right? You'd have to do 2 full crank revolutions for a complete cycle. If your valve isn't opening it sounds like your exhaust lobe is worn down to nothing. You could pull the intake and visually see the cam lobe. If the lifter is not...

I like 72blu's method. If you get to where you think it's a valve or a cam lobe, you could just remove your rocker arms on that cylinder and do a leakdown test. If air blows out your carb or exhaust you know which valve is the problem. If it blows out through the crankcase you have bad rings...

I use the XE268 solid cam. Here's a link to a post I made earlier about it: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=86930 340 833 dart - I like your signature block, pretty much covers all of the abuse of the language you see on the net.

I run the solid xe268 in my 360. I ran the numbers on desktop dyno and looked at the charts on the compcams camquest program and the solid XE268 had more torque than the solid xe274 until 5500rpm where they were about equal. The xe274 only had about 10 more ft-lbs than the xe268 at 6000rpm...

You might as well drop $1500 on a stroker kit and get a cam recommendation from someone who is smart on this. While you're in there do it right so you don't have these same problems you've been having. You'll save money in the long run. You should probably also buy a timing light before you...

Hey guys, I am looking to switch over to a solid roller cam cause I want some more power. My flat hydraulic lifters always feel like they are collapsing when I try and preload them when adjusting the rockers. As a result I always adjust them where I just barely start feeling the pushroad...