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Yeah I have an AAR sixpack. It happens when sitting still in traffic or in my driveway, doesn't matter. Once I get moving its all good and it cools down asap.

Its a standard pump I got from Oreillies. Yeah, chrome housing, plus I know the intake is warped at the housing also.

Autometer electric gauge, been using the same one on two other engines and it has always seemed accurate. Yeah the intake does seep around the thermo housing, I have a new Air-gap intake sitting on the shelf, but I wanted to to heads at the same time. Yeah, block was boiled out, it was...

will do, I'll check it and let everyone know what I find, probably will have to wait until next weekend though.

I honestly couldn't say, I could call the machinst, but its been so long I doubt he remembers. I am running KB hypers also, KB116CP IIRC. Maybe I just need to drive it more?? System is burped, they don't seem to make the springs anymore, so I cut down and coiled up a coat hanger. Will...

This had occurred to me, the engine only had about 100 miles on it until I made the 200 mile round trip trek to the track last month. The block has about 40K on it since it was punch out .030 a few years ago. I basically just freshened it up with new pistons etc in 07, so idk how tight it is...

Yeah, but I ran a stock replacement radiator up until about two months ago. that's when I went with the Aluminum rad cause it was getting too hot. It cools better, but still gets too hot.

Standard pump, was installed in April of 07 when the engine was built, has 300 miles on it. I checked the stat with boiling water before I installed it in the engine and it functioned properly, I can't remember, but I think it is a standard replacement stat.

I have a pretty mild setup that still seems to be getting hot. Stockish 360, probably about 10:1 compression, mild cam (Comp XE 268 IIRC), J heads with stock valves and an old Edelbrock single plane. I have a home made shroud that covers the fan blades and will suck a shop towel up against the...

I guess I could check that with my laser temp reader, hadn't thought of that.

180 stat if I remember correctly. I do have a shroud, plugs read perfect on it. The weird thing is if I gradually slow down to a stop it doesn't heat up. But if I'm moving at a high rate of speed then slow down abruptly, that's when it gets hot. The radiator is a only a two core and it is really...

My 70 has a cooling problem and I don't know where to start with it. I can cruise along at 60-70 MPH and it doesn't go above 195 deg. There is a light in town that about two miles before it I have to slow down to 35 MPH before I get to it. I sit at the light, no problem, I cruise through town at...

Think I need one? It's only like a 300 horse 360, it's not really that wild at all. What is the normal threshold on those things?

Yeah, it's on right, I can get a shop rag to stick to the grill when it is idling.

Pretty good aren't I? :)

It's a brand new radiator. I bought it so I wouldn't have this problem. :-P

Standard pump. I know the stat functions properly also because I always check them before I install them.

Yeah, it has a shroud, forgot to mention that. It'll go to 210 and keep climbing if I let it.

Running a 2 core 340 rad in my 70, 180 stat, 18" viscous fan, new water pump. Iron headed 360, mild cam (.480ish on both sides, can't remember exactly). Ever since I got it together it has had a temp creep problem. Running down the road at 55 mph (about 2600-3000 rpm, no tach yet), it runs cool...

I've used those brackets before. You can bolt the two "L" shaped ones to the existing radiator mount holes on the bottom, but you'll have to figure something out for the top. I drilled a couple holes in the top of the core support and in the top flange of the radiator. If I had to do it over...

Yeah, you may want to try the aluminum rad. I just got in from fooling around with mine and it still runs too hot.

^^That's what I did.

I got one that fits. Flex-a-lite part# 5534 was a good 3/8" to 1/2" shorter then the one I had gotten originally and looks to clear everything pretty good. Thanks for the help guys!

I'm talking overall depth, from the front of the clutch to where it mounts on the water pump. Is that what you are talking about?

I looped a short section of heater hose from the pump to the intake. You can barely make it out in this pic:

I got a new thermo clutch and fan for my 70 (car didn't have one when I got it). The clutch is about 3" deep and makes contact with my radiator. Now my core support is bent back a little bit from a wreck at some point in it's life, and the hacks that fixed the car didn't straighten it out. This...

I yanked mine from my 70 in about 30 minutes. It wasn't that bad. Or course I didn't replace it, I just blocked off all the holes. :)

Look at the Summit radiators, they are about $160-$170. You'll still need an external cooler, but they are much cheaper. Oh, and buy one for a GM if your running a small block. The Ford/Mopar ones only work with our big blocks.